Monticello AVA Quadrant Series: Northwest

The Monticello AVA is officially "Virginia's Napa." With over 30 wineries (and more to come) surrounding the Charlottesville area, the Monticello AVA contains more vineyards and wineries than most other states. Those who plan to "hit C'Ville for some wine tasting" should plan their trip accordingly. It's very easy to get lost in the world of Jefferson country wineries. For that reason, we've split the AVA into four quadrants. Each quadrant offers the full spectrum of winery experiences: From industrial, working vineyard vibe, to romantic and intimate, to big event focused spots. With so many wineries in the area, even breaking the AVA down into four sections isn't enough spotlight every location. We'll zoom in on our favorites and also suggest the best route.

Avoid route 29. We'll say it again in bold. Avoid route 29. Charlottesville has been experiencing incredible growth over the past fifteen years, and the area of route 29 north of C'Ville resembles Route 7 near Baileys Crossroads mixed with Route 50 through Fairfax on a Thursday afternoon. You get, we trust, the point. Avoid route 29. Coming from Northern Virginia, there are other options, regardless of which quadrant you're visiting. For the Northwest quadrant, we suggest taking route 29 to route 33 in Ruckersville, which is very close to the area where route 29 turns into a parking lot. Follow route 33 west (a right turn if you're coming from the DC area) and then follow country road 810. Your GPS or the most recent Virginia Wine Map will surely help you along.

These back roads run parallel with route 29 and are extremely scenic, in any season. Nearby wineries in the northern section of this quadrant include Stone Mountain Vineyards and Kilaurwen Winery, two locations your bloggers wrote about earlier this year. The roads are quite twisty here, so a designated driver is suggested if you stop by these two wineries (especially to tackle the road leading to and from Stone Mountain).

As you approach the area of the AVA where Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Mountains meet the Charlottesville area, you'll come across four locations that craft some of the great vinos in the state. Mountfair Vineyards, which sits at the base of the Blue Ridge foothills and is accessible by a gravel road, specializes in bold reds. This is an intimate location; they even have a policy regarding live music: Acoustic only. As the barrel room also serves as the guest room and entertainment room, this rule makes sense. The wines are complex and perfect for aging here. Meritage style blends are their specialty. We loved them all, but if we had to pick a favorite, it would be "Intertwined," 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 10% Cabernet Franc. And white fans, fear not. They occasionally offer a white from a nearby vineyard, and the owner/winemaker has promised to concentrate on white varietals now that he's perfected the reds.

Next stop, White Hall Vineyards. White Hall is a familiar presence in stores around the area, including Safeway. They are a mass producer. But mass production doesn't mean inferior. This is one of the best mass producers in the Commonwealth, and their wines shine in every vintage, particularly their Gewürztraminer, crisp and flowery with just a touch of sweetness. Their Pinot Gris is French style, with a hint of honeysuckle. Petit Manseng, rising in popularity in the state, is another winner, off dry and brimming with citrus fruit flavors and papaya. For those in your group who were overwhelmed by the hearty reds at Mountfair, White Hall will give them something to toast about. (Red fans don't despair: Their Cabernet Sauvignon is a tart yet silky smooth winner).

Stinson Vineyards, about a mile from White Hall, is an outstanding, relatively new location, with enthusiastic owners, a tasting room modeled after a general store, a unique wine aging concrete "egg" (ask your pourers to see it; it's right behind the tasting room), and tasty selections. There is a good variety of dry reds and slightly sweeter whites here. Their Tannat is nicely priced, compared to Northern Virginia locations; a characteristically deep red wine with elderberry notes and a peppery finish. On the other end of the spectrum, their rosé is light, nearly effervescent, with end notes of bacon. Like other wineries in this area of the Commonwealth, prices are right - prices alone justify a long weekend jaunt to the Monticello AVA.

Stinson Vineyards:

The wine "egg" at Stinson:

As you meander closer to the town of Crozet and U.S. highway 250, you may have the inclination to try other spots, and we highly encourage that. Grace Estate Winery was the subject of a recent blog entry, and King Family Vineyards is an all-time Virginia favorite.

Other locations in the Northwest Quadrant that deserve a shout-out:

Moss Vineyards
Glass House Winery
Pollak Vineyards

Winery URLs spotlighted in this post:

Mountfair Vineyards
White Hall Vineyards
Stinson Vineyards

Fauquier Winery Spotlight: Hume Vineyards

In an effort to support the Fauquier County Wineries, which may be severely impacted by the ordinance passed on July 12, 2012, the Notebook will begin a spotlight on the wineries in the county. Come out and enjoy. These wineries are about 30 minutes further from the more popular spots in Loudoun County, but well worth your driving time (plus you can stop and admire, and photograph, all the cows, horses, sheep and goats that you want! Stick it to the stuffy wealthy land owners in the county!) "A little Virginia winery with big ambition" is the slogan for Hume Vineyards, and that just about sums it up. Located about a mile down the road from Philip Carter Winery, and not far from Naked Mountain, Hume Vineyards opened its doors in mid 2010; a partnership with Breaux got the little Virginia winery firmly established, and now the location has impressive vineyards on both sides of its quaint, rustic tasting cabin. As with most Virginia wineries bordering the Blue Ridge, the views are incredible. The front of the tasting cabin offers rolling foothills, and the rear of the cabin boasts the view of the mountains in the distance. There are ample picnic tables with umbrellas and a covered porch in front of the tasting cabin. The wine is superb. Further proof that Virginia is coming a long way with its reds, Hume focuses on Bordeaux varietals, delicious, bold and earthy: Cab Franc, with its notices of licorice; Cab Sauv; Petit Verdot; and Merlot. For the hot summer days, a bottle of deep red may not be the ticket, so Hume has that side of the spectrum fulfilled: Sauvignon Blanc, a honeysuckle-like Viognier (dry!), and a terrific rosé. Judging from the number of guests during a recent freak hailstorm, word has gotten out about the pleasures of Hume Vineyards. We filmed this storm and will be posting footage of the storm in future Notebook entries. For now, enjoy the introduction to Hume Vineyards:

Virginia WineRoad Trip: Route 6 Trail

The Charlottesville area is now home to so many wineries and vineyards (and a few breweries) that selecting the right Wine Trail is the best way to maximize efficiency - driving in a scenic area is great, as long as there are wineries dotted along the way! Route 6, a state highway that runs along the Rockfish and James Rivers south of Monticello, is a unique way to start in the country and end in the city - Richmond. Follow this course and you can do the rural thing and urban thing in one weekend, and hit a few places to imbibe along the way.

Like many state highways, route 6 doesn't follow a conventional straight line path. We suggest hopping on 6 via route 29. However your GPS, Google map or MapQuest map (or if you're a relic like us, your atlas) takes you there, you're looking for the intersection of U.S. 29 and state highway 6, near Faber, Virginia (home of a general store, and that's about it).

You will be rewarded for the trip on Route 29 (especially if you took 29 through Charlottesville) with the first winery - and you're not even on route 6 yet. The turnoff to DelFosse Vineyards is actually about a quarter mile past the intersection of 29 and 6. This place has to be seen to be believed. Picture traveling on winding mountain roads, very narrow in spots, for about five miles, and then coming across a giant campus dedicated to fine wine (oh, and the winery is surrounded by a nature preserve complete with a trail from the winery to the mountain woods). A pond, terraced vineyards, and a cabin you can rent for the night. Plus some amazing and unique wines. Be sure to try the Grand Cru Olivier red blend.

DelFosse is a hard place to find, but even harder to leave. Should you pass up on the cabin rental, find your way back to route 29 and drive northwards back to the intersection of 29 and highway 6. Make the right on 6 and follow the signs towards Scottsville. Scottsville itself is an interesting town that hugs the James River and you may want to stop for lunch. Or, continue on the trek. You still have several wineries to hit before getting to Richmond. About two miles past the village of Columbia, you'll arrive at the next stop: Byrd Cellars. Expect great things from this new winery. The wines are incredible, and the winemaker is serious. He even plans to release a Viognier later this year, even though he confessed to us that he is "not a fan." The winery is perched on a hill overlooking railroad tracks and the James River bed. Not one, not two, but three apple wines, and they are particularly proud of their Nortons (a regular and a reserve). We loved the chardonnay, but all wines are impressive, considering the newness of this winery. And be sure to ask about their "Columbia cats," a white cat with tabby markings that apparently pops up all over this section of Virginia. The winery has taken in several.

The next two wineries are not on Route 6 - okay, we're cheating. But by the time you hit Byrd Cellars, you may have grown tired of the road anyway. Chart a course to Windsong Winery, which you can plot on your own via GPS or ask the nice folks at Byrd (they'll be happy to draw a map for you). Windsong is another relatively new location, on "Funny Tree Trail," named after a strange looking specimen that the owners of Windsong are more than happy to explain. The wines are adequate, with room to improve, and definitely unusual. Three wines rare for Virginia: Muscat, Dornfelder and Garnet, plus a chardonnay and several fruit wines. A very serene location to be sure.

The last winery on this trail is another highly unique one: Grayhaven Winery. Follow U.S. highway 250 or I-64 eastbound towards Gum Spring, and look for the signs. The tasting room exists in a small Tolkien-esque building and the wines are just as unique as Windsong's. The whites are good, but the reds stood out. They boast an incredible Touriga that will keep on your rack for 10+ years. Other must trys are their Cab Sauv and Pinotage, which could be dubbed South Africa's answer to Pinot Noir.

Off to Richmond, if you really feel bold, Short Pump. Just follow I-64 or highway 250 (which becomes Broad Street). The Route 6 Trail offers highly unusual choices for the diehard Vavino fans out there.

DelFosse Vineyards
Byrd Cellars
Windsong Winery
Grayhaven Winery

Wining and Beering on Route 151

By now, everyone with even a passing interest in the Virginia wine scene knows that Charlottesville is Virginia's Napa. When visiting the home of the Cavaliers, it's best to select a trail or "loop" that maximizes your winery hopping, and minimizes your searching, as the wineries are not exactly next to each other. Route 151 is a Virginia highway that runs immediately south of Charlottesville. And in addition to wineries, this highway offers a beer trail as well.

Wine or craft beer - what's a boozer to do? Find a DD and thrust yourself into Nelson County. To get there, make your way to U.S. highway 250, which runs parallel with I-64. Near Crozet (a small town between Charlottesville and Waynesboro), you'll find the first stop: King Family Vineyards. This is one of the area's original vineyards, and is featured quite prominently in the documentary on the Virginia wine scene, "Vintage: The Winemaker's Year." And King Family is the only Virginia winery with its own polo field. It's a little too cold for polo now, but make a note for when spring arrives.

Further west on highway 250, you'll arrive at a right turn for one of our very favorites in the state, and also featured in the "The Winemaker's Year": Pollak Vineyards. This is a great year-round spot, with a roaring fireplace that the owners encourage visitors to tend to. And the wine is superb.

Two wineries, and you haven't even hit State Highway 151 yet! You can get to 151 two ways: An immediate turn off route 250, or keep driving on highway 250 towards Waynesboro and make the left turn onto state route 6 (give your GPS a real workout). State route 6 will take you past Afton Mountain Vineyards, which boasts one of the best views in the state and a new Mediterranean styled tasting building. Further down the road, Veritas Vineyard is another featured in "The Winemaker's Year," and is well known throughout the state due their presence at festivals.

About two miles past Veritas, state route 6 crosses 151. Keep going straight on route 6 (confused yet?) and hit Cardinal Point Vineyards, which their marketing material claims as "the most unpretentious winery in the state." The metal building tasting room is certainly proof of that. They don't have a lot of indoor seating options but their wine is unique enough (especially the whites) that you should stop for a tasting.

Follow the signs back to route 6 and take the left turn onto state highway 151. Finally you're on the highway this blog entry is named for. And with good reason - you will be driving for about 10 miles before arriving at the next stop: Flying Fox Vineyard, which will be on the right side. Try the Trio, their award-winning red blend.

Eventually routes 151 and routes 6 (which share the road between Cardinal Point and the next winery stop--Hilltop Berry Farm and Winery) split. Hilltop Berry Farm makes fruit wines and mead. Definitely a unique option on the 151 trail and the fruit wines are priced lower than grape wines, so you can load up on them. Not every wine is sweet - enjoy their generous tastings and pick a few for the road.

The final winery stop is further south on 151, towards Wintergreen Resort. The winery is aptly named Wintergreen Winery, and like Afton Mountain Vineyards, expanded recently. Their Black Rock Chardonnay is one of the best chards in the state.

Presuming you are not seeing stars by now (especially if you visited all aforementioned wineries), you will be ready for the beer experience. You passed the beer spots on the way down to Wintergreen. All three of them are unique and offer flights of beer, food, and cozy atmospheres--really, one notch above your basic sports bar, but the views and the friendly people compensate for the sports bar thing.

Devil's Backbone, Wild Wolf and Blue Mountain are the brewpubs, and all are along highway 151. And after Blue Mountain, the northernmost brewpub, if you have the time, you can even visit Starr Hill's facility in nearby Crozet.

We've been saying "too many wineries, not enough time" for years. Now we can add "too many wineries and breweries, and not enough days." To make this trek, we suggest a B&B or hotel stay in nearby Charlottesville, Ivy (home of the Boar's Head Inn) or Waynesboro.

King Family Vineyards
Pollak Vineyards
Afton Mountain Vineyards
Veritas Vineyard
Cardinal Point Vineyard
Flying Fox Vineyard
Hilltop Berry Farm & Winery
Wintergreen Winery

Devil's Backbone Brewery
Wild Wolf Brewing
Blue Mountain Brewery

Staunton Jaunt Video Clip I: Ox-Eye

Direct from downtown Staunton: Ox-Eye winery tasting patio!

Got History? Got Wine? The General's Wine and History Trail

Virginia probably has more historical sites than any other state on the east coast. From the American Revolution to the Civil War, to the birthplaces and homes of Washington, Jefferson, Madison and Wilson. So why not combine a historic tour with a wine trail? Luckily the folks behind the General's Wine and History Trail have done all of the work for you. And this year marks the 150th Anniversary of the Civil War, so there is no better time than now to embark on this journey. Just visit one of the wineries on the list, pick up your passport (a guide and map of the trail), and begin your history lessons!

This wine trail is a little different than others. The participating wineries are not clustered along the same road. So you can break up your visits to the wineries by weekend. Make sure you pick up the passport at one of the wineries and get the passport stamped by each winery. Prizes are raffled to those who complete the trail.

The wineries participating in the General's Wine and History Trail (some of which have been spotlighted by the Virginia Wine Notebook):

Lost Creek Vineyards

Sunset Hills Vineyard

Bluemont Vineyard

Veramar Vineyard

Swedenburg Estate Vineyard

Three Fox Vineyards

Fox Meadow Winery

Philip Carter Winery

Gadino Cellars

The Winery at LaGrange


This is a great year to "wine about history" (as opposed to the "wining" we all did in 7th grade history class). For more information, visit their website.

The General's Wine and History Trail

Winery Spotlight: Loudoun Valley Vineyards

The Route 9 Wine Trail in Loudoun County makes for a perfect Saturday getaway—-several wineries, small to large, intimate to commercialized, dot the highway that leads from Route 7 (west of Leesburg) to Charles Town, WV. One of the oldest spots in the county is the aptly named Loudoun Valley Vineyards, which is a stone’s throw away from Route 9, but seems like a world away as soon as you drive down the road leading to their tasting room.

The Loudoun Valley surrounds the vineyards and tasting room. Yes, McMansions do appear in your field of vision (it is Loudoun County after all), but there is physical, aural and visual “space” here. The vineyards slope on foothills surrounding the tasting room. The tasting room itself is a modest affair: A one-story building with a wrap-around porch with views of trees and hills in all directions.

The tasting bar is no-nonsense and most likely, the owners will handle the tastings for you—-Bree Ann and Cameron Moore are probably the youngest winery owners in the state, but Bree Ann cut her cloth making wine in Sonoma County, CA, and that experience has paid off. Their wines are served in several Northern Virginia restaurants, particularly Vinifera in the Westin Hotel in Reston (I mean, a-hem, Reston Heights). Vinifera even has half bottles (quite rare in the Commonwealth, especially in restaurants) of Loudoun Valley wine.

Of the wines, most of the Virginia usual suspects are here, and then some....Cab Franc, Merlot, Pinot Grigio, Viognier, and Pinot Noir (the "and then some" of the bunch). Plenty of other wineries in the county offer these varietals, but Loudoun County's are unique - there is no other word for them. Familiar, yet different. In a good way.

As the owners are young, expect a younger crowd as patrons. And expect live music nearly every weekend (a Nirvana cover band played one weekend last summer). But as long as tables are available outside, you can escape the Seattle vibe. As for the winter, Loudoun Valley has “soup weekends,” and the small tasting building retains heat nicely. The wines are stellar, the location is cozy—Loudoun Valley Vineyards should not be overlooked on your next Route 9 winery jaunt.

http://loudounvalleyvineyards.com/index.php?home/chome

The 8 Greatest Views in Virginia Wine Country

Virginia is a beautiful state. From the seashore to the mountaintops, with charming towns, rolling foothills, forests, bays and rivers and lakes in between, the Commonwealth has a way of lowering your blood pressure the minute you get off one of the congested Interstates. So it's only natural that the wineries of Virginia take advantage of the Old Dominion's one-of-a-kind diversity.

Selecting just five Virginia wineries with spectacular views was too much of a daunting task, so we upped it to eight. The wines at these locations range from good to excellent, but for the first time, the blogmasters will concentrate on the settings and views, versus the winery and the wines. In all honesty, most people will find at least one wine they like (or love) at every Virginia winery.

We tried to span the state to offer the best views in different settings, but we gravitated towards the mountains. That's not to ignore the wineries in the central, north-central, "Northern Neck" and Eastern Shore of Virginia; looking over the past reviews in the Notebook, it seems these spots have been getting the shaft. That will be remedied soon.

The Best Views in VAVINOLAND (ranked from #8 to #1):

(8) CHESTER GAP CELLARS (outside Front Royal)

The slogan of Chester Gap should be a twist on that old Bell Telephone jingle: "Reach out and touch some mountains." Chester Gap itself is a village and a mountain gap directly off U.S. highway 522, between Front Royal and the Washington/Sperryville, VA, area. The tasting room overlooks the gap itself, and is a Facebook photographer's dream (the blogmasters have posted group shots with the gap in the background and have received many compliments to stroke our amateur photographer egos). Down the hill from the winery is a general store stuck in 1949, that probably still sells RC Colas, moonpies and Sinclair gasoline.
http://www.chestergapcellars.com/index.htm

(7) BELLE MOUNT VINEYARDS (near Warsaw, VA)

The "Chesapeake Wine Trail" is not to be overlooked when surveying trails in the Commonwealth. One of the more unique spots is Belle Mount, probably the only winery in the state located on a family campground (complete with swimming pool and cabins). The tasting room looks more like the rec room you remember from summer camp days, and that Coke machine outside will only cement that memory. But the view from the porch outside the tasting room is wonderful---sloping vineyards and then Cat Point Creek, a tributary of the Rappahannock River. If he's not busy, owner and winemaker Ray Petrie will lead you through a nicely paced tasting, including the historical background of Belle Mount Plantation and the campground.
http://bellemount.com/

(6) WOLF GAP VINEYARD AND WINERY (near Edinburg, VA; Shenandoah Valley)

Wolf Gap is a relatively new winery and boasts views of not one but two mountain chains--the Blue Ridge to the east, and the Alleghenies to the west. The Wolf Gap itself is on the VA/WV line, and this area of the Shenandoah Valley is farm country. The only noise you'll hear at Wolf Gap (that is, if there is no live band playing...) are the cows and horses in the distance. Blood pressures will drop instantly.
http://www.wolfgapvineyard.com/index.html

(5) WILLOWCROFT VINEYARDS (Loudoun County)

Only one winery in northern Virginia was selected for this list, to give other, more distant wineries their due. It was a tough call---Bluemont, Fox Meadow, Naked Mountain, Sunset Hills, Hillsborough and Breaux all boast incredible views, and you're in for a treat if you visit any of these places. We selected Willowcroft because the place is simply irresistable, and that view - wow! Who knew Loudoun County was so beautiful? If you have a strong pair of binoculars, you can make out Bluemont Vineyards on the other side of the valley. Willowcroft is a rustic charmer, the oldest winery in the county, and is producing some top notch vintages.
http://www.willowcroftwine.com/index.html

(4) AFTON MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS (near Waynesboro)

"Grapes don't grow in ugly places" is the declaration of Afton Mountain Vineyards. With the opening of their new tasting room, with unspoiled views of the rugged mountains around the Blue Ridge Parkway, their slogan is 100% accurate. This area of the Commonwealth had so many contenders: King Family, Flying Fox, Pollak, First Colony, Blenheim. But the sense of Zen the blogmasters felt at Afton Mountain was unsurpassed. Maybe it was their incredible (and unexpected) Pinot Noir. Or maybe it was their view....
http://www.aftonmountainvineyards.com/

(3) BLUE RIDGE VINEYARD (west of Roanoke)

With a name like Blue Ridge Vineyard, you know the view is going to be something special. This is probably the most rustic place we've visited - the tasting room is inside a barn that resembles an antique store. Outside, mountain vistas in every direction. And a gazebo smack in the middle of the rolling fields. This is a winery every Virginia fan should visit at least once.
http://www.blueridgevineyard.com/HOME.htm

(2) LEO GRANDE VINEYARD (Bedford, VA area)

The photograph on Virginia Wine Notebook's home page, with the Adirondack chairs, was taken at Leo Grande. It is one of our favorites. The foothills of the Blue Ridge are in the distance, the winery (like Blue Ridge Vineyard) is far far away from busy highways, and the mood is laid back and rejuvenating.
http://www.leograndewinery.com/about_us.html

(1) STONE MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS (between Madison and Charlottesville)

"Taste the altitude." Another fitting slogan. Stone Mountain Vineyards is perched up, way up, on a mountainside overlooking the eastern slope of the Blue Ridge. The road leading up to Stone Mountain is one-of-a-kind (a bear cub crossed in front of us on one trip). If you suffer from vertigo, take some precautions, but you are rewarded with some fine vintages, an airy, uncluttered and beautiful tasting room, and the best view in the state. Even if you don't drink wine, you're advised to trek up "that road" and visit. Chris, the owner and winemaker, is a presence at state-wide festivals and will even take you on an intimate tour of the cellar (which includes a storage cave--and it really is a cave). Up on the deck overlooking the vineyards, it's only you and the falcons and eagles. Do I hear John Denver playing in the background?
http://www.stonemountainvineyards.com/


And after visiting these wonderful spots, if you're yearning for more good wine and vistas, we recommend these "runner ups"):

Blenheim Vineyards: http://www.blenheimvineyards.com/

Bluemont Vineyard: http://www.bluemontvineyard.com/

Breaux Vineyards: http://www.breauxvineyards.com/

DuCard Vineyards: http://www.ducardvineyards.com/

First Colony Winery: http://www.firstcolonywinery.com/

Flying Fox Vineyard: http://www.flyingfoxvineyard.com/

Fox Meadow Vineyards: http://www.foxmeadowwinery.com/

King Family Vineyards: http://www.kingfamilyvineyards.com/ourfamily.php

Pollak Vineyards: http://www.pollakvineyards.com/

Wintergreen Winery: http://www.wintergreenwinery.com/

Undiscovered Wine Trail III: Front Royal surprises

For many frustrated Northern Virginia commuters, the town of Front Royal is this faraway destination that appears on Beltway and I-66 overhead signs - new folks in town probably never heard of the place. Region long-timers think of Front Royal as the starting point for Skyline Drive, or home of Skyline Caverns (more interesting and more pleasant of an experience than Luray Caverns, IMHO). And those are two perfectly good reasons to make weekend jaunts to Front Royal (along with another best kept secret--Raymond R. "Andy" Guest Jr. Shenandoah State Park). Front Royal now boasts a fourth reason to visit - a cool and distinctive wine trail.

Get your butz out of bed early one fall Saturday morning and get on the road by 9. By 11 AM, you'll be exploring the first winery, and if you choose to stay in-town, there are plenty of motels to pick from (national chains like Holiday Inn, Quality Inn and Hampton Inn) as well as "retro motels" like Relax Inn (on the banks of the Shenandoah River) and the Twi-Light Motel. But Front Royal is "not too far, not too close," and you can get back to the DC area by 10 PM if you couldn't find a sitter for the day.

To get to Front Royal, I-66 is the quickest and easiest route, but we suggest state highway 55, which you pick up at exit 23 on westbound 66. This route is far more scenic, and takes you by several Delaplane spots. The choice to stop at one of the wineries off highway 55 towards Front Royal (Aspen Dale Winery at the Barn; Naked Mountain Winery; Fox Meadow) is your's. But some of these wineries have already been spotlighted. For purposes of this trail, these are the four wineries to tour:

1. CHATEAU O'BRIEN AT NORTHPOINT

Howard O'Brien knows wine. And he'll be the first to tell you that. The first thing that comes to mind when you mention Howard O'Brien to a Virginia winery regular is "that guy is a real character!" He talks rapidly and with great enthusiasm about his unique winery, on a bluff overlooking I-66, in a renovated French farm house. You will experience great wine here - for better (the quality bar is set high) or worse (the prices---quite a bit more than other VA wineries). You can choose your tasting experience: Classic Wine tasting ($5 a person), for the usual Virginia suspects---mainly whites, a rose, and a delicious apple wine; and a Cellar Collection tasting ($10 a person--weekends only) that's for the red wine fans.

Splurge on the Cellar tasting and taste how Virginia has come along on reds. The Tannat is a unique red and not many Virginia wineries make this. Bold and hearty, a great steak wine, Tannat is Uruguay's red wine, and Howard will provide a colorful history of this grape. After the tasting (the Classic tasting is fine too; you will get a good variety from this tasting), settle in with a bottle or glass, and relax on his deck overlooking the hills and beautiful I-66.

2. Next stop....RAPPAHANNOCK CELLARS

Continuing down state highway 55, you'll enter Front Royal proper. Turn left onto U.S. highway 522, drive through the Chester Gap (a mountain gap, a village, and a winery...we'll get to the winery later), and follow the signs for Rappahannock Cellars, which is a large operation (one of the Commonwealth's most commercial spots), but Rappahannock Cellars proves that big, commercial does not equal inferior. They know what they're doing here.

The tasting room offers several tasting counters. Yes, they have peanuts and pecans and candy and other items that may remind you of Stuckey's on the way to Florida way back when, but their wine is extremely good. And they have a lot of land here; no two views at a Virginia winery are the same, and Rappahannock Cellars may not be along the banks of the river, but it does have unique mountain views in all directions. Their stand-out red: Meritage. Stand-out white: Viognier. But you can't go wrong with any of their wines.

3. Onward....CHESTER GAP CELLARS

If you liked the Viognier, Virginia's signature and admittedly unusual-tasting white, at Rappahannock, you'll flip over the selections at Chester Gap Cellars. Return to U.S. highway 522, towards Front Royal, and you'll make a sharp (very sharp) right turn into Chester Gap Cellars, which boasts one of the nicest views in the state (reach out and touch some mountains....) No limos or buses allowed, which is music to our ears. They simply don't have the room. This is a family operation---winemaker Bernd Jung (a characteristically gruff, but still friendly, Americanized German) or his wife will walk you through the tasting in the strangely unfinished-looking tasting room. Ask Bernd about the unfinished look and he'll tell you, "I concentrate on wines here." That he does. The Viogniers--both his regular and Reserve--are probably the finest in Virginia.

His reds are good too, but not as mind-blowingly good as those Viogniers. Current red offerings are Cab Franc and Merlot. And those prices - most wines are under $20 a bottle. And you'll need to save some cash for the final stop.

4. Last stop....GLEN MANOR VINEYARDS

Follow route 522 back into Front Royal, make a left turn onto route 55, and then make another left onto route 340. Watch out for the signs for "Browntown Road," and make the left. Glen Manor is a bit hard to find, but you'll thank these directions, or your map, or your GPS (provided the GPS can find this place) once you arrive. There is simply no better place to wrap up this tour than Glen Manor. These are some of the best wines in the entire state. Really. Several California wine snob acquaintances of your blogmasters can attest to this.

Glen Manor offers a view of the mountains and Skyline Drive from its back deck. The tasting room is small, but the delights await you. Their white wine of choice is a Sauvignon Blanc, which will erase your memories of those sweet bottles of Monkey Bay from Harris Teeter. But their gems are the reds: Cab Franc and pure Petit Verdot. The red prices here are a bit higher, but lay down a bottle of Cab Franc or Petit Verdot for a few years. Their labels are handsome, and in a few years you'll open the bottle with pride.

Front Royal's wineries attract a diverse mix; even Harley-Davidson riders have been known to stop by these spots. Savor the mountain scenery and savor the vintages.

chateauobrien.dreamhosters.com/visit/

rappahannockcellars.com/about-us

www.chestergapcellars.com/index.htm

www.glenmanorvineyards.com/map.html

Northern Virginia Wine Trail Trek # 1

Living in Northern Virginia, time is a precious commodity. As much as we'd love to roadtrip to Charlottesville, the Shenandoah Valley, or the Northern Neck every weekend, our schedules (not to mention that wonderful traffic) restrict us a bit. Luckily, there are plenty of good-to-great spots in Northern Virginia to compensate. This "best kept secret" wine trail focuses on lesser-known and/or out-of-the-way spots that don't receive the fanfare of places like Tarara, Breaux or Potomac Point. So load up on road trip music (iPOD or those "relic" CDs would do---Van Morrison, Steely Dan and the Eagles are our fall winery road trip favorites), and get your behinds out to NOVAVINO territory!

The 55 Wine Affair Trail: Barrel Oak Winery, Three Fox Vineyards, Aspen Dale Winery at the Barn, Fox Meadow Vineyards

We call Virginia State Highway 55 the "Wine Highway." This two-lane highway runs parallel to I-66 from Haymarket to Strasberg, VA (where I-66 and I-81 meet). You may not drive as fast on 55, but the scenery is a helluva lot nicer. Plus, easy access to numerous wineries. In fact, there are so many now that it was hard to pick just four for this trail.

The trail must begin at BARREL OAK WINERY, now a few years open and getting better (and more popular) by the year (and month). Visit Barrel Oak once, and you'll be surrounded by upbeat fellow tasters, staff, and of course dogs. This spot is nicknamed BOW for a reason. But the outdoor seating options are numerous. Even if the parking lot is full, you're bound to find a table for yourself. Visit on a weekday afternoon for a more low-key experience. Most likely you will be visited by owner Brian Roeder, his wife and primary winemaker Sharon, or the assistant winemaker Rick. (Rick one time came up to the tasting room on a quiet Thursday afternoon from the wine lab, test tube in hand of his newest creation--a slightly unusual but still tasty Merlot--for the visitors to try). The wines are getting better all the time......favorites are their Norton (earthy but smooth), Traminette (nicely aged in steel), and their two table wines (BowHaus White and Red). If the tasting room is not crowded, climb up to their loft and relax on their sofas.

Next stop is right down the road from Barrel Oak: THREE FOX VINEYARDS. If you have a car like mine (not a lot of "tork"), that bluff leading up to the tasting room at Three Fox could be a challenge. But once you arrive, you will be amazed by the views. Three Fox is situated on a hillside, and they even have a table high up on another hill they dub "the table in the sky" (you can reserve this table in the sky; there is only one). At the bottom of another hill lies a creek as well as several picnic tables and hammocks - this place is the Wintergreen Winery of northern Virginia (see the previous blog entry for more info on Wintergreen). By their own admission, the tasting room is small (and there is a porta potty in the back for when nature calls--two, actually--but they are the cleanest, best decorated porta potties you'll ever use). Many of their wines are award-winners. The stand-outs are their Calabrese Pinot Grigio, La Boheme Viognier, and Gatto Bianco (complete with a cat on the label, which nicely balances the offerings at Barrel Oak). Three Fox's whites have the edge over their reds, in the blogmasters' opinions, but one red is definitely worth mentioning: Il Volpe Sangiovese, the closest thing we've had to a Super Tuscan in Virginia. Grab a bottle or a few glasses and take that hike down the hill (Three Fox even has a golf cart for those not able to make the hike down, and back up - for one reason or another).

The next spot on the trail opened about a year and a half ago: ASPEN DALE WINERY AT THE BARN, directly off highway 55, on the way to Front Royal. The emphasis on the barn is deliberate. The tasting room resides in the barn, and the location is an active horse and pony farm. This is one of the few wineries we'd recommend bringing the kids to, if you must bring kids, as they'll be entranced with the friendly horses and ponies nearby. This is the only winery we've been to that begins its tastings with the sweets, and ends with the drys. The reds are the winners here (although their whites are fine too). Aspen Dale has a Cab Sauv (not as common in Virginia as the Cab Franc) that is one of the finest in the region, and their Rose is easy drinking and delicious. In back of the barn, Aspen Dale has a relaxing garden, complete with fountain and gazebo.

Further down highway 55, on the border of Front Royal, lies FOX MEADOW WINERY, on Freezeland Road (up, way up, on Freezeland Road). We've spotlighted this winery in July 2010, so refer to that blog for a more detailed description. It is one of our favorites in the state, and like others on the trail, their wines just get better with each year. Stay awhile and look "down on the mountains." If you still have energy and are in "good condition," you can saunter over to other wineries in the Front Royal area, which will be spotlighted in the next blog.

Fall in Virginia is winery trail time, and even if you can't make the trip to Virginia's Napa (the Monticello AVA), Northern Virginia offers plentiful alternatives.

www.barreloak.com/directions

www.threefoxvineyards.com/visit.htm

www.aspendalewinery.com/

www.foxmeadowwinery.com/

Two "Undiscovered" VA Wine Trails

A region like Virginia (and Napa, and the Finger Lakes, and the Willamette Valley of Oregon....) is bound to have several wine trails. Some are heavily promoted and work closely with local towns and Chambers of Commerce; others are largely unknown. By posting two of the more undiscovered trails, the blogmasters risk filling up these wineries with "newbies" - but one of the goals of our blog is to get the word out on some of the lesser-known wineries in the Commonwealth (by now, everyone has heard of Barboursville, Tarara, Prince Michel, Williamsburg Winery...)

The pair of Virginia wine trails outlined here target two distinct AVAs (Monticello and the Shenandoah Valley). Pick one of these trails, and prepare to drop anchor at a B&B or motel (in Charlottesville or Waynesboro for the first trail; Woodstock or Winchester for the second trail).

(1) The Secret Gems of the Monticello Trail--Wintergreen Winery; Flying Fox Vineyard; Afton Mountain Vineyards; Pollak Vineyards

Drive south of Charlottesville, on U.S. highway 250 southbound (this route passes by several wineries and you will be tempted to pull off, but keep driving to keep this special trail intact!) Around the small village of Afton, get on state route 6, southbound and follow it to state highway 151. Start the afternoon (or late morning, for you diehards out there) at WINTERGREEN WINERY, a large-scale but surprisingly relaxing place with a vast view of mountains and fields. Relax by the Rockfish river and unwined with a bottle of one of their best--Black Rock Chardonnay Reserve or Brent's Mountain Merlot. There is no better spot to start this trail.

After wrapping it up at Wintergreen, return to state highway 151 northbound and you'll end up at a spot that you probably passed to get to Wintergreen: FLYING FOX VINEYARDS. We've already spotlighted this wonderful spot so check out the review from September 2010.

After a relaxing tasting and glass (or bottle) of Fox White or "Trio" at Flying Fox (by now the fox on the weathervane could very well be "flying"), continue northbound on highway 151, where it hooks up with state route 6, and follow signs (or your map) to AFTON MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS. This Monticello AVA staple is not as well-known as some of its neighbors, but it's a must-visit. This winery makes the finest Sangiovese in the Commonwealth, and is one of the few wineries in Virginia that makes a pinot noir. Afton Mountain's new owners recently added a new tasting room, which offers one of the finest vistas in the state.

Stop four takes us to POLLAK VINEYARDS, another relatively new Monticello AVA spot which (like Afton Mountain Vineyards) has its own pond and a great, but very different, mountain view (Pollak is more valley-like in its setting, while Afton Mountain is higher in elevation). Must tries here: Meritage, Petit Verdot and Viognier.


(2) The Woodstock/Shenandoah Trail--Cave Ridge Vineyard; Wolf Gap Vineyard; North Mountain Vineyard

This wine trail requires an Interstate drive (first I-66 westbound, and then I-81 southbound), and is close to Woodstock, a charming town due west of Skyline Drive and a section of George Washington National Forest. Your first stop is CAVE RIDGE VINEYARD, between Woodstock and Mt. Jackson. This winery is really off the beaten track so have your map or GPS ready. Perched high on a hill, surrounded by trees, Cave Ridge is the proper place to start this trail. Settle in with a bottle of Fossil Hill Reserve, their signature red (a blend of Chambourcin, Petit Verdot and Cab Franc), and breathe the clean mountain air. But stay straight: You have two more wineries to hit.

Not far up the road from Cave Ridge is WOLF GAP VINEYARD, which works closely with Cave Ridge (the two wineries are what Virginia winery cooperation and friendly competition are all about). Wolf Gap is named after the gap on the VA/WV border in the Allegheny chain, and the back porch offers impressive views of both the Blue Ridge and the Alleghenies. "Wolf Gap Willie," as the winemaker/owner likes to call himself, will greet you with a smile and serve up one of the finest Rieslings in the state....delicious.

After Wolf Gap, grab that map or GPS and head back to I-81, northbound (or for a more scenic drive, if time is no object, try U.S. highway 11, which runs next to 81, instead). NORTH MOUNTAIN VINEYARD is a staple of the Shenandoah region, and has been producing award winners for years. Ample picnic tables, a wraparound porch, and a "gemütlich" (owner is German) vibe indoors. Their apple wine is a must-try, and on the grape front, the Chambourcin is one of the best in the region.

These are just two favorite trails of your blogmasters. But you can't go wrong with any Virginia winery. As George Martin said about the Beatles' songs, "they're all pretty good." Same goes for Virginia wines.


Secret Gems of the Monticello AVA trail--

www.wintergreenwinery.com/about.php

www.flyingfoxvineyard.com/index.php

www.aftonmountainvineyards.com/

www.pollakvineyards.com/


Woodstock/Shenandoah Trail:

www.caveridge.com/index.php

www.wolfgapvineyard.com/about1.html

www.northmountainvineyard.com/