Virginia Wine Weekend Getaway Towns: Part 3

Continuing with our six-part examination of getaway spots in the Commonwealth where you can partake in Virginia's finest, and explore an interesting town or city (following our spotlights on the Eastern Shore and the Northern Neck), we land in a fascinating town often overlooked as Virginia getaway spots: Petersburg.

Petersburg is a historic city about a half hour south of Richmond, with a charming, cobblestone-street Old Town district that's less popular and more walkable than its more populated/popular sister city to the north. Petersburg, like Richmond, was pretty much ravaged during the Civil War, the famous Appomattox River flowing through the city's northern border and providing key access to the James River. Battlefields surround the city, giving the city a haunted vibe (weird Virginia fact #45: The only house made out of tombstones in the country is in Petersburg). The battlefields include the site of the horrific Battle of the Crater (depicted in the 2003 film Cold Mountain). You can spend your morning touring the battlefields, visit two nearby wineries during the afternoon, and finish up at a variety of cool spots in the Old Towne district of Petersburg.

Morning:
Tour the battlefields!

The blogmaster in front of a piece of artillery:

The Crater:

Chimney:

Afternoon:
Winery time!

Two wineries are located east of the Petersburg/Hopewell/Colonial Heights corridor: New Kent Winery and Saudé Creek Vineyards.

New Kent Winery is a unique location as it is the only winery that we're aware of in the state that was developed as not only a wine destination, but a permanent housing community. This is a planned community not far from the busy I-64 corridor between Richmond and Hampton Roads, with vintages in mind. In fact, some of the neighborhoods in this community have names like "Viniterra," and the community is popular with American families and retirees alike.

The impressive winery building was built from historic materials reclaimed from buildings and structures well over a century old. Heart-pine trusses were reclaimed from a 1901 Southern Railroad Depot located in the Shockoe Bottom area of Richmond, handmade, pre-Civil War bricks were added, and the siding and roof shingles were milled from cypress logs that had been submerged in north Florida rivers for more than 150 years. The result is an inviting structure that mirrors the attitudes of the owners, the staff, and the wines.

Of the vintages, we adored the Chardonnay Reserve, with smooth vanilla notes and a hint of oak; the unique white Norton rosé, with a touch of sweetness that works perfectly with curry-based foods, and the bold Merlot, with its notes of blueberry and raspberry. The tasting process is Virginia Lady or Gentleman style; deliberate, entertaining, and intimate. Visitors are welcome to join tours of the impressive property throughout the day. Or, you can kick back inside or outside on one of the patios (in warmer weather, of course) overlooking the grounds and the community. This is not Reston. This is a low-key, decidedly Southern, winery experience.

Not far down the road from New Kent, about 20 minutes southeast along highway 249, Saudé Creek Vineyards is another impressive, relatively new location. Their tasting building is built on a bluff about half a mile from the Pamunkey River (a tributary of the York) and you can see the river through the trees from their expansive outdoor deck. New Kent Winery's offerings were heavy on the white side; Saudé Creek offers more for the red fans in your group. The Chambourcin has a Pinot Noir-ish medium body, and is dry and tasty as a fine Chambourcin should be, with a slight mouthfeel of plum. Their Cab Franc has soft tannins and a slightly chalky and peppery finish; wonderful. For the whites, we loved their Pamunkey Fall, a blend of Viognier and Chardonnel - fruit forward yet dry. Fans of sweeter wines will enjoy their blush Squire's Blend, a blend of Chambourcin and Muscadin, as well as their Traminette, perfect for white pasta dishes or Thai food.

Video clip of the experience at Saudé Creek:


Evening:
Petersburg and the nearby cities of Hopewell, Colonial Heights, and Chester offer numerous hotel, motel, and B&B options. You can visit the Virginia Tourist Guide's Petersburg for a list of options. For a great selection of beer (both European and craft), as well as a warm (in both senses of the word) environment and great food, we highly recommend The Brickhouse Run, a true British pub (go for the Scotch eggs, bangers and mash or the delicious Petersburger). From their website: "We like to think that if Petersburg, Virginia were part of Britain this is what its pub would be like." True, that. The bar tender was immensely chatty and knowledgeable, particularly about craft beer. We didn't notice Virginia wine offerings, but we were in a beer mood by the time we arrived here anyway.

Petersburg is a college town (Virginia State University, Richard Bland College), so there can be a lively atmosphere here. For a throwback to your college days, visit Longstreet's, a burger/sandwich joint with an expansive selection of craft brews. Stroll around the cobblestone alleyways and be sure to visit the Appomattox River, where a mere 100 miles up the river, the Civil War was put to an end.

Any season is the right time to visit one of Virginia's best kept secret towns: Petersburg.

'15 New Winery Spotlight #1: Winding Road Cellars

As we usher in another year of hopping through Virginia's finest, we embark on a series of blog entries focusing on (relatively) new wineries that have sprung up over the past 12 to 18 months. Some of these locations have been listed in the past two annual Virginia Winery maps; others were open "by appointment" only, and just recently established regular business hours.

As we await the publication of this year's Virginia winery map, which will most definitely list new wineries to explore in the coming year, we focus on some spots that have been open for some time now.

Winding Road Cellars

A few weeks before Christmas, we loaded up several Beatles CDs and decided to pay a visit to a few favorites around Front Royal, including some new spots. As we passed Philip Carter Winery on the left, traveling near the village of Hume, we inserted the Let it Be album and turned left into Winding Road Cellars. The road leading to the tasting building was not exactly long, but it was a bit winding, as the gravel driveway led us down the incline to a tasteful holiday-decorated building.

We were greeted by one of the owners, who seemed a bit reserved at first but friendly. She led us through a tasting including the requisite bites of chocolate to pair with the wines. Although they have promise, we don't think Winding Road is quite there yet, compared to other mainstays in the area like Philip Carter, Chateau O'Brien and Fox Meadow Winery (although the wines were all decent to good.) Sometimes it takes newer wineries a few years to find their way, to determine what grows best in the vineyards, as the soil in the Commonwealth is so varied from region to region. We felt the same way about two other wineries near Winding Road, which opened in 2011 and have since locked into varietals that they're confident in creating: Cobbler Mountain Cellars and Capitol Vineyards.

The tasting included two off-sweet styles that would work well with extremely spicy dishes like spiced crab dip or Thai food: Vidal Blanc and Semi-Sweet Chambourcin. Both styles are favorites of wine "newbies," so Winding Road will do well with the scores of young people who descend on the winery scene throughout the year (and not just in the spring, summer, and fall anymore...) The Vidal Blanc was a touch too sweet for us, with some honey notes, but would work well with the aforementioned foods.

The 2010 Chardonnay was quite good, offering notes of butterscotch. The big guns were their reds, all of which have potential: Chambourcin (regular, not semi-sweet), Cab Sauv and Cab Franc. We understand that the owners are going to grow styles quite unusual to this part of Virginia, namely Pinot Noir and Riesling, because "my husband is a little crazy" (exact quote from his wife, who led us through the tasting with dry wit).

The interior of the tasting building is mostly wood, which is perfect for sound absorption. Although there was not a live band when we visited (thankfully), we understand from their website that bands do perform here. At least the wood will buffer some of the sound, unless the band is acoustic (and acoustic bands get a pass from us; they actually work very well in a tasting room).

Outside, a deck overlooks the large pond (bordering lake in its size). We asked about the decrepit little boathouse on the pond's shore, and she told us the previous owners of the land kept canoes and kayaks (and even a small sailboat) in the boathouse. The boathouse looks like a true fixer-upper and we envision another seating area or tasting room in that location.

All in all, Winding Road Cellars is a solid addition to the region. We were sad to hear Hume Vineyards, which also opened in 2011, closed its doors last year, due to a myriad of issues. We visited Hume several years ago during a crazy mid summer storm and documented the event (click here).

Some pix to get you inspired for a long and winding afternoon at this winery:

The pond:

Additional photos - during this pre-Christmas jaunt, we visited a few other spots in the area. As it was a Friday before Christmas week, we had the normally very bustling Rappahannock Cellars almost to ourselves!

And on a less positive note, we pulled in to the infamous Oasis Vineyards, to look at their sad property. These vines will have to be completely pulled up and the soil turned over, before new vines can be planted. This would explain why the nearby wineries are not interested in this land. It's such a sad story - the original owner made such fine wine, but he turned the operation over to his son, who was more interested in entertaining celebrities, operating a limo business, and crashing White House galas:

Vino Movies: Take V

Putting our Roger Ebert hats on for one last time, we're up to the final movie in our over year-long discussion of the Top Five Wine films. To bring you up to date, you can read about the previous four flicks we picked here:

5. The Godfather Part II
4. Notorious
3. Sideways
2. A Good Year

Before we unveil our top pick, here are three vineyard/winery-themed movies that would have made the list if we had analyzed a Top Eight:

6. A Walk in the Clouds
7. French Kiss
8. Under the Tuscan Sun

Which brings up to the Number One pick:

Bottle Shock

The Notebook adores this movie. It's charming, funny, nostalgic, wonderfully acted, beautifully photographed, and probably most important, based on a true story. The movie is set in the then still young (in the New World of wine) Napa Valley in 1975, the year before California wine defeated French wine in a blind taste test known as the "Judgment of Paris."

Chris Pine, on his way to becoming a major star courtesy of the Star Trek film reboot and other Hollywood blockbusters, stars as Bo, the slacker son of a very serious man (played by Bill Pullman, who's come a long way from playing the "dumbest person on the planet" in Ruthless People), who would rather smoke pot, crank the Doobie Brothers, and drink his father's creations right from the bottle in his Napa vineyards than learn about the craft of growing grapes, creating wine, and then marketing the creations. Pullman plays Jim Barrett, the proprietor Chateau Montelena vineyards, who threw away a very lucrative job in Los Angeles as a lawyer to follow his dream in Napa. Without giving too much of the film's surprises away, the film becomes Rocky-like in its inspirational story, as Bo shapes up and ends up representing his father's wines, as well as other blossoming Napa wines, in Paris in 1976.

There are some great characters and performances in the film, especially delightful if you're familiar with these actors' previous roles: Alan "Hans Gruber" Rickman as Steven Spurrier, the British wine fanatic who decides to open a wine shop in Paris, of all places, and embarks on journey to find the new winemaking centers of the world (and ends up in Napa); the late, great Dennis Farina (he of countless FBI agent and hilarious mobster roles) as Maurice, the owner of an American tourist shop next door to Spurrier's in Paris (we love Maurice's descriptions of the wines he constantly tastes - for free - in Spurrier's shop); Freddy Rodriguez (who also appeared in A Walk in the Clouds) as Barrett's most talented winemaker, who harbors a secret; and Eliza Dushku, who as an ex vampire slayer on TV would seem a little out of place in this film, but shines in several of the film's best moments as the owner of a local Napa bar. However, Pine and Pullman really take charge of the film as the estranged Bo and Jim. When Jim Barrett reaches rock bottom, it is amazing acting from Pullman, who in addition his break in Ruthless People, has played the President of the United States several times, battled voodoo in Haiti, and worked with acclaimed director Lawrence Kasdan in several films.

The characters in the film are real. The events are authentic (albeit slightly modified to appeal to movie audiences). The film is a perfect choice for wine lovers and holiday viewing, and tasting rooms throughout the state (and country) show the film in evening screenings. Although it contains some salty language, sexual situations, and (OMG) pot smoking, compared to movies like The Hangover and your pick of Seth Rogan comedy, Bottle Shock plays like a Disney movie.

Virginia wineries have been using the events depicted in the film as a template. "California, once seen as the joke of the winemaking world, can do it....so can we!" The small town of Paris, Virginia (up the road from Delaplane where routes 50 and 17 intersect) hosted its own "Judgment of Paris" a few years ago as a tribute. If you're a wine lover (Virginia wine lover, or just a wine lover in general), buy, rent or stream this film pronto!

Trailer:

The Politics of Vineyards

There is no question the country is divided. Whether you blame the current administration, or you blame the media, the country has now officially been divided up into sections of blue and red. But the truth is most Americans have moderate or middle of the road ("purple") beliefs. The Notebook blogmasters tend to lean left on many issues, but we have conservative views on a few hot topics. We thought it was time to reveal what we perceive are the leanings of some of our favorite locations, with tongue planted firmly in cheek.

When it comes to vineyard and winery ownership, the myth states that entrepreneurs tend to be more Conservative, and farmers tend to be more Progressive. But as we've gathered from some winery owners, that's not always the case. There are plenty of winery and vineyard owners "in the money" who support Earth Day and there are many grape growers and wine makers who fly Gadsden Flags on their property. Wine enjoyment is apolitical - if the wine is good, the location works, and the staff and owners are hospitable, we're there.

This entry will be a bit more provocative than most, as one can't mention politics without setting oneself up for debate. But in the spirit of the other entries, we will try to remain lighthearted as we review our picks of the Top 3 Red (right-leaning) and Blue (left-leaning) wineries in Virginia. Keep in mind we never get into political discussions with other patrons or staff at wineries. We never ask the owners what side of the political fence they reside on. We abide by the golden rule of "never talk about religion and politics in mixed company." These six choices are based on pure observation, as well as the random comments made by the owners or the pourers over the years.

Top 3 Red Wineries:

3. Trump Winery (south of Charlottesville)
With a name like Trump Winery, what would you expect? We were greeted with Hummers and other SUVs in the parking lot sporting Virginia Tea Party
license plates. Rumor has it, The Donald used his monetary (and famous name) muscle to get his winery highway signs much quicker than other new wineries when he took over the location from Kluge Estate's (also right-leaning) owners several years ago. The obligatory political observations aside, we were wholly impressed with the wine, the tasting room, and the generous level of service of the staff. Actually The Donald delegated the oversight of the winery to his son Eric, and photos of the Trump brood (including, of course, framed magazine covers) adorn the walls. We preferred the wine here over the previous Kluge Estate; more lighter varietals and whites, versus the Kluge offerings, which tilted towards heavy reds and sparkling wines. Prices were modest and there wasn't an elitist mood here (visitors requiring reservations, $40 tastings, etc. - contrasted to a few locations, which shall be nameless, in Virginia which do this). Of the wines, we loved the unoaked Chardonnay, Bordeaux-style new world reserve red, and the rosé. Maintaining the niche carved by Kluge, Trump also offers several nice sparkling wines.

2. King Family Vineyards (Crozet)
Also located in the Charlottesville area, King Family Vineyards was one of the first wineries in Virginia we visited and remains a favorite. The first time we visited, driving down the gravel road and observing the large polo field, "Dallas" instantly came to mind--the TV show, and the city. Turns out the winery has Texas roots (David and Ellen King hailing from the Lone Star state), and they planted their first vines here in the mid '90s. Horses, polo and lacrosse are the passions of the owners (David is also a licensed pilot), and they happen to make excellent wine. If you've seen the PBS documentary "Vintage: The Winemaker's Year," you probably recall the sequence where the family ignites campfires, and David King pilots a helicopter, to keep the warm smoke locked in over the vineyards during an unexpected spring frost. With the Texas and military background of the family, as well as the upper crust sports and visitors wearing Kentucky Derby-like apparel to watch the polo matches here, there is a decidedly "red" mood, but as the case with Trump Winery, there is no exclusive atmosphere here. Of the wines, all are very good to excellent, but we usually end up with several bottles of Croze and Petit Verdot.

1. Philip Carter Winery (east of Front Royal)
Christmas decorations galore, Christmas music played until New Year's Day, and a staff member who proudly boasts that Philip Carter is the favorite Virginia winery of a famous (or infamous) member of the George W. Bush administration (we'll keep that to ourselves for now....) Yup, this is about as "red" a winery can get, however the hosts are gracious, the tasting building has a real wood fireplace (a big plus), the view in the mountain "cove" is beautiful, and the tours are educational and amusing. You will certainly learn a lot of about Philip Carter and the Carter family, the owner and a direct descendant of one of the pioneering families in the history of Virginia wine. Prices are a bit steeper here (this is "recession proof" Northern Virginia, after all), but we typically end up leaving with a few bottles of their dry rosé, Rosewell.

Additional "Red" locations to try:
Fox Meadow Winery (east of Front Royal)
Wolf Gap Vineyard (south of Woodstock)
Valerie Hill Winery (south of Winchester)


Top 3 Blue Wineries:

3. Blenheim Vineyards (south of Charlottesville)
Only in Virginia....two celebrity wineries right next to each other. Blenheim Vineyards, designed and owned by musician Dave Matthews, sits a few yards away from the entrance to Trump Winery. It's a friendly rivalry - signs near the exits of these two wineries direct visitors to the other winery. Matthews is a well known progressive musician with professional roots in Charlottesville (although Matthews originally hails from South Africa). The eye-pleasing A-frame styled tasting building here is constructed from reclaimed wood fitted together with mortise and tenon joints, and the timber frame tasting room is lined with south-facing windows and skylights, which facilitate full daylighting of the space. No electricity is required to light the space in the summer. The deck behind the tasting room looks over a southeast setting, where you can make out the bluffs surrounding the James River in the distance. Of the wines, the pineapple-kissed Viognier and Merlot, with notes of plum, are our favorites.

2. North Gate Vineyard (Purcellville)
We get a progressive vibe at North Gate the minute we pull into the parking lot; spots are reserved for car poolers and fuel-efficient vehicles. Sustainability is the mantra here - and great wine. Nestled off Hillsboro Road, between the towns of Purcellville and Hillsboro in Loudoun County, North Gate is a favorite of the blogmasters. The large, airy tasting room offers a gas fireplace with a chimney that doubles for the real wood fire place on the other side (the outdoor fireplace). A patch of thick pine trees line the path leading to a foothill of the Blue Ridge. North Gate's solar PV system provides 100% of the power the owners need to operate the winery and tasting room for one calendar year. They utilize net-metering and send excess electricity that they generate back onto the grid for others to use. But it's not all about green energy and sustainability here. Try their Chambourcin (either room temperature or slightly chilled), Viognier, or their statewide-famous apple wine.

1. Cooper Vineyards (Mineral)
Cooper Vineyards takes the "green" approach of North Gate and turns it up to "11." In 2011, their new tasting building opened, which earned a coveted LEED Platinum certification, awarded only to construction projects that meet the highest-rated standards in green building technology. The tasting building resembles a merging of Frank Lloyd Wright and Woody Allen's "Sleeper." Nestled in the rolling Piedmont hills of central Virginia (between Richmond and Charlottesville), it's a hard place to leave. You really feel away from it all here. They offer several off-dry and off-sweet wines here, including arguably their most famous wine, Noche, a chocolate-infused wine. Their winery is not far from the epicenter of the 2011 Virginia earthquake (the then-new tasting room sustained a little damage but was quickly repaired). Cooper "celebrated" the earthquake with a wine called "Epicenter," a red blend that was extremely tasty but sadly no longer available. Our current favorites here are the Coopertage blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc), and Coopertage Blanc, a Chardonnay and Viognier blend.

3 more "Blue" locations:
Barrel Oak Winery (Delaplane)
Fabbioli Cellars (north of Leesburg)
White Hall Vineyards (Crozet)

No matter what your "color" leaning is, we hope you check out these twelve Commonwealth locations soon!

Thanksgiving: What to Pour?

With under a week to go before America's big day to give Thanks and fill our stomachs, year after year we ask ourselves, "what kind of wine goes with?....." To celebrate the upcoming holiday, we invite readers to post their favorite Virginia wine and food pairings, and we offer a few of our own.

Turkey:
Most white meats go best with white varietals, and turkey is no exception. Our favorites are the Cardinal Point Quattro, one of their signature blends of Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, Viognier, and Traminette, with notes of pear and honeysuckle; Chatham Vineyards Church Creek Chardonnay Oak Blend, with its delicious flavors of apple and vanilla; and Flying Fox Vineyard's Pinot Gris, dry and crisp with an abundance of citrus notes.

Pinot Noir is a red varietal that goes well with turkey. We suggest Rockbridge Vineyard's Dechiel Pinot Noir, with its complex but immensely drinkable cranberry and hazelnut tones.

Ham:
Ham is the stand-by if the family is tired of turkey (or, in the case of large families, is offered in addition to turkey). Off dry and off sweet whites work great with ham, their sweetness offsetting the salt. We love North Gate Vineyard Rkatsiteli, a crisp style with hints of lemon and melon that is becoming quite popular on the East Coast. Williamsburg Winery offers A Midsummer Night's White, a terrific blend of Vidal Blanc, Traminette, Petit Manseng, and Viognier that pairs well with both ham and spare ribs. Doukenie Winery's Riesling boasts a crisp (steel aged) finish with a touch of green apple.

Rosé also works with ham; we suggest Sunset Hills Vineyard's Sunset Rosé, a refreshing blend of Chambourcin and Traminette.

Save some wine taste buds for dessert!

Pumpkin Pie:
Barboursville Vineyards' dessert wine, Malvaxia Passito, is made from Moscato Ottonel and Vidal grapes, and is well balanced and silky, a perfect compliment for this Thanksgiving mainstay.

Or.....

Pecan Pie:
Stinson Vineyards' Imperialis is a port-style wine crafted from Tannat. A delicious compliment to the sweet and molasses-rich pecan pie, which the Blogmasters usually go for over the more popular pumpkin.

But it's Thanksgiving....why not go for both?

Happy Turkey (or Ham) and Wine day, everyone!

Virginia Wine Weekend Getaway Towns: Part 2

From the ocean to the bay to the hills and mountains, towns and villages in Virginia offer something for everyone. In Part 2 of our wine weekend getaway series, we will spotlight another section of the Commonwealth: The Northern Neck.

The Northern Neck is the peninsula surrounded on three sides by water: The Potomac River to the north, the Rappahannock River to the south, and the Chesapeake Bay to the east. This is a very historical area, rich in both Civil War and Revolutionary War sites, and is home to George Washington's birthplace. The terroir here is similar to that on the Eastern Shore, albeit a bit more clay mixing with the loamy, sandy soil found on the Eastern Shore. This means bold, Old World style reds and crisp, dry traditional white varietals like Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.

The Northern Neck is bisected by state route 3, which passes through several towns before meandering to the base of the peninsula near Kilmarnock, Irvington, and White Stone (near the mouth of the Rappahannock). Like the Eastern Shore, this area is a waterman's paradise, and as a quick getaway for the weekend could be preferred over the Eastern Shore, as there is no bay bridge (or bridge tunnel) to traverse.

Crabs and peanuts reign supreme here, and several wine varietals fare surprisingly well with both foods (including spiced crab flavored peanuts).

Despite the geographical size of the Northern Neck, it is easy traveled. There are no really big towns and no cities, and the roads rarely get congested. You could drop anchor at the lower end of the NN (in Irvington or Kilmarnock), or closer to the middle part of the peninsula (in Warsaw, or Tappanannock, which is across the Rappannock but only a stone's throw away from the river).

Because of the geographical scope of this region, we will violate our earlier rule and spotlight three wineries. If you begin the jaunt at the far end of the Northern Neck, Athena Vineyards is a perfect place to start. Athena is the perfect name for a winery owner by three nurses: Ada Jacox, Carol Spengler, and Ruth Harris. All three of these extremely gracious ladies possess PhDs, and their backgrounds must come in handy when negotiating the three branches of science involved in grape growing and winemaking: Geology, biology and chemistry, with a healthy dose of meteorology in there for good measure (respectively, from planting to wine creation).

The influence here is definitely Mediterranean, with the Chesapeake Bay being not far away and the vineyards overlooking one of its tributaries, the Great Wicomico River. Their spectrum of red and white varietals through the years includes nearly every wine the Commonwealth is known for: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Tannat, Chambourcin, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Vidal Blanc, Chardonnel, Seyval Blanc, Traminette, and Vignoles. Missing are Norton and Petit Manseng, although we understand the latter could be arriving in the future. Of the reds, all were solid winners, but our hands down favorite is Galleon's Treasure Red, 70% Chambourcin and 30% Cabernet Franc. This is an aromatic dry red wine that works great with ribs and other barbecued meats.

As for the whites, their Pinot Grigio was a favorite, very crisp and refreshing with notes of grapefruit and honeysuckle. We paired it with a grilled beer brat, and the pairing was perfect. Athena's White is an off-dry style (Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc) that pairs well with Chesapeake soft shell crabs. Their most intriguing wine is "Safe Harbor Red," an 18% port-style wine, available in a ship-shaped bottle (a perfect holiday gift). The tasting room is charming and and low-key and the hospitality of the owners makes it hard to leave.

But moving on.........driving back up the peninsula, through the town of Warsaw, look for signs for one of the most unusual wineries in the state, Belle Mount Vineyards. This location is unusual from the moment you pull into their gravel road. Belle Mount Vineyards is located on a camp ground that also rents full-furnished cabins (a steal at $95 a night during off-season). Owners Ray and Catherine Petrie bought the campground in the '90s and began experimenting with grape growing in the early '00s. Their wines are unique; there are no other wines in the state quite like them, despite coming from familiar varietals (Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot). This could be because their "picnic wines" (table blends) seem to overshadow the others in their tastes and labels (one wine comes packaged in a lighthouse bottle, which nicely compliments the ship bottle from Athena for those looking for gift ideas). The "Lighthouse White" is an off-dry blend similar to Athena's White.

The two table reds, Lighthouse Rouge and Workboat Red, are off-sweet Chambourcin-based blends, good for pairing with spiced shrimp, crabs or oysters that are the staple foods of this region in Virginia. The Notebook's favorite style here was the Chardonnay, just the right amount of oak, with notes of vanilla and nutmeg.

The location is directly on Cat Point Creek, a finger of the Rappahannock River. And completing the winery-in-a-campground vibe, a Coke machine is located right outside the tasting room.

The final destination on this wine tour of the Northern Neck is the creatively named The Hague Winery. Taking its name from the nearby town (Hague, VA, not "The Hague," VA), this location has its roots in tobacco history. Many vineyards in the Commonwealth were once tobacco fields, but you really feel the tobacco vibe here (in fact, the day we visited, the Great Dismal Swamp was burning due to a lightning storm, and the smoke carried as far as 100 miles north—the smoke in the air added to that tobacco sensation).

The Hague Winery vineyards:

Like Belle Mount, The Hague Winery offers a cottage for nightly rentals, making this another intimate alternative weekend getaway destination over the more crowded Charlottesville and Shenandoah Valley winery spots.

This wine is making its mark with Chardonel, a hybrid developed at Cornell University made from Chardonnal and Seyval grapes (hence the name) along with Petit Manseng. Currently, two Chardonels are offered: 2011 and 2013. The 2011 is the preferred (by the Notebook, at least), and won a Silver Medal at the 2013 Virginia's Governors Cup. Crisp and floral, with notes of almonds. The 2013 is not shabby either, drier in mouth feel than the 2011.

Merlot, Cab Franc and a very hearty (and worthy of comparisons to the best French Bordeauxs) 2010 Meritage represent the reds at The Hague. This Meritage is comprised of Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, and Cab Sauv, and seeing how 2010 was one of the best growing seasons for Virginia, the bottle will age for years. For the wine lover in your family, pick up a bottle ($29, which is about the average price of a less impressive wine from a Northern Virginia winery) and complete the trifecta you started with the Galleon's Treasure Red from Athena and Lighthouse White from Belle Mount.

The Hague is really a wonderful experience. Their outdoor seating is under a large pergola with a view of the vineyards, remaining plantation buildings and farm. Most likely you will not encounter the smoky air from a burning swamp when you visit, but you will most certainly get the feeling that this was a Colonial working farm.

Winery links (click on winery name):
Athena Vineyards
Belle Mount Vineyards
The Hague Winery

Accommodations:

Besides the cabins offered at Belle Mount and The Hague, there are several motels found in the towns on the Northern Neck, not to mention B&Bs.

Northern Neck Inn (Warsaw)
Holiday Inn Express (Kilmarnock)
Whispering Pines Motel (White Stone)
Days Inn (Tappahannock)

B&B Guide:
http://www.northernneck.com/lodging_inn.asp

Other wineries to visit on the Northern Neck:

Southern peninsula (Kilmarnock/Irvington area):
Good Luck Cellars
Jacey Vineyards

Middle peninsula (Warsaw/Montross area):
Vault Fields Vineyard
General's Ridge Vineyard

Northern peninsula (Colonial Beach area):
Ingleside Vineyards
Oak Crest Vineyard

Vino Movies: Take IV

Continuing in our nearly year-long listing of the top five winery/vineyard/wine themed movies, we're up to the number two pick, a movie that was roundly trashed by critics and ignored by audiences when it came out eight years ago:

A Good Year

Why was the movie so despised? Perhaps critics and moviegoers were expecting more from Ridley Scott, director of such classics as Alien, Blade Runner, Thelma and Louise and Gladiator. Maybe they were getting tired of Russell Crowe, who by then had gained a reputation of being, for lack of a better term, a total asshole in real life. Whatever the reason, we find A Good Year to be a hugely entertaining, well acted, beautifully filmed, and quirky love story set on a picturesque (but of course) chateau in Burgundy.

Crowe stars as Max, a day trader in London who's coming off a major trading victory, adding to his already inflated ego and bank accounts. Soon after his latest victory, he learns of the passing of his uncle (played by Albert Finney, excellent as usual), who raised Max on his chateau in Burgundy. Through flashbacks, we see hints of the unusual relationship between Max and his uncle, and we also see traces of how Max became the brilliant, albeit totally self-centered, financial wizard he is now. He travels to the vineyard, with the sole purposes of fixing it up, appraising it, and selling it. This being a Hollywood romantic comedy (although Scott, being the auteur he is, a very unique romantic comedy), his initial plans are met with interference.

The interference comes in the form of two female characters, played by Abbie Cornish and the always easy on the eyes Marion Cotillard. Cornish plays Christie, mysterious woman who claims to be the daughter of Max's uncle, who's traveled from Napa to hopefully take over the chateau. Cotillard's Fanny Chanel is the owner of a local café who met Max when they were kids. There are several subplots involving the assessment of the vineyards and the chateau, and the quality of the wine itself (wine fans will get some belly laughs from these scenes).

What makes the film special are the eccentric characters, including Max, who despite his overbearing arrogance has some appealing and funny qualities (Crowe is perfect in the role), Finney in his flamboyantly gruff mode, Max's best friend and financial manager, as well as the larger than life vineyard manager and his wife. Australian actress Cornish and Cotillard, who have since become very familiar faces (and in Cotillard's case, Oscar winner), are believable as would-be romantic interests for Max (Max is initially skeptical of Christie's claim).

The shots of the vineyards are intimate and Scott puts you there on the Chateau, thanks to whimsical touches in the barrel room and the pool and tennis court. The film is not as cynical as Sideways, and not as sexually explicit and profane, so A Good Year works as perfectly as a "Virginia winery movie night" type of movie.

The music is also wonderful, keeping in the spirit of the slightly off-kilter charm of the movie (a combination of French pop songs, French covers of American pop songs, and Harry Nilsson tunes).

Trailer for A Good Year:



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