Part 1: Chincoteague
We'll start in the extreme eastern section of the Commonwealth; extreme northeastern, to be exact. Chincoteague is so close to the Maryland border that a few reviews for dining establishments on Yelp place the restaurant in Chincoteague, MD. Chincoteague is well known to fans of literature and history for its wild ponies (actually the ponies live on adjacent Assateague Island, which does jut into Maryland - in fact 2/3 of the island is on the Maryland side).
Chincoteague is a town first, resort second. The beach is actually a 10 minute drive away, through a National Wildlife Refuge, so vacationers in the summer book here for the atmosphere first, beach second. The town is stuck in a time warp, in a good way. The mini golf courses and frozen custard stands with neon lights remind one of a bygone era. An anti corporate vibe is apparent here; you won't find Starbucks (in fact, blogger John has a vacation home on the island, and while we were imbibing in Vavino one night, we came up with a bumper sticker: Chincoteague: 200 Ducks. 0 Starbucks).
Ducks, ponies, and chickens rule the island - one thoroughfare is actually called Chicken City Road. The small, approximately three block downtown section, on the bay side, offers a wonderful wine and cheese shop that offers several Virginia wines, Wine, Cheese and More. However as two Virginia wineries are in the plans, pick up a few bottles here in the morning and head "off the island" to the Eastern Shore.
A left turn onto U.S. highway 13, the main highway on the Eastern Shore, will take you to the wineries. The first one is about a 30 minute drive south, to the town of Nassawadox. Once you arrive in the town (really a village), Holly Grove Vineyards is a relaxing 10 minute drive from the main highway.
The Eastern Shore has growing climate and soil similar to the north fork of Long Island, where Chardonnay rules supreme. As this is a very laid back, uncrowded and unpretentious location, Jonathan, the owner and winemaker, will most likely pour for you. His chardonnay was superior, crisp and dry, with apple and fig notes. His High Tide Traminette was a great complement to the Old Bay seasoned peanuts we picked up - a good balance of spice and pineapple notes. His rosé is an off-dry winner with notes of raspberry and cranberry. Finally, for the bold red fan in your group, the Merlot: Hungarian oaked (larger than normal barrels), zesty and dry.
In warmer months, you can rent kayaks and take a bottle (or two, or three) out into the nearby creeks and really vegg out. For cooler weather, you can bring a picnic and relax by the water.
Entrance to the Holly Grove tasting room:
Be sure to call Holly Grove before you visit, especially during the cooler months, to make sure someone can meet you in the tasting room. Website URL: http://www.hollygrovevineyards.com/
The second winery is a leisurely drive northbound on route 13, heading back to your weekend getaway in Chincoteague. This winery is named after the town it resides in: Bloxom Winery.
Owners Robert and Francesca Giardina planted their vines in 2000 and opened their doors to the public in 2004; they are the oldest of the three wineries on the Eastern Shore (not to snub the third location, which we also love - Chatham Vineyards). As you can tell from the owners names, this location is rooted in Old World Europe. The soil on the Eastern Shore has more in common with the soil in France and Italy compared to the mainland of Virginia, and especially the soil in California, Oregon, and Washington (the "New World" growing region of the U.S.) The soil is sandy and loamy, and very bold reds such as Merlot and Cab Sauv thrive here, as well as the aforementioned Chardonnay.
As the case with Holly Grove, there are not a huge number of wines here, but even with their limited wine list, you are bound to find something for every palate. The Merlot is deep, with notes of plum and currant. The Chardonnay is a bit more oaky than the offering at Holly Grove, but still smooth and perfect with brie cheese. Their biggest sellers are their sweeter styles: Some Like it Blush and Red Kiss. The winery is very close to the main highway and the owners explained that Salisbury, home to a few colleges, draws the "wine newbies" nearly every weekend.
In the spirit of the Mediterranean flavor of Bloxom, artisan pizza is prepared in a wood fire stove every Saturday. Sit yourself down in the enclosed patio off the tasting room and you will feel as if you've been transported to Tuscany:
The entrance to the winery is rather nondescript, but it is quiet here, and you are surrounded by vineyards.
Check the website URL before departing: http://www.bloxomwinery.com/Home_Page.php
Back on the Island......
Wrap up your wine getaway on the Eastern Shore with dinner at one of Chincoteague's quaint restaurants. Our favorites include Bill's Prime Seafood and Steak and Maria's Family Restaurant, which has great pizza and fried chicken (which we discovered goes very well with Viognier.)
Plenty of motels and hotels on the island to choose from - Hampton Inn to retro mom and pops. To get a real feel for the island, we suggest a mom and pop, or one of the many B&Bs. Try the Lighthouse Inn, in the heart of downtown, walking distance to restaurants and the bay, with a picnic area including grills for guests to use. For a comprehensive B&B listing, click here.
This charming town and the nearby Eastern Shore await you for wining and dining in the salty air.
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