Showing posts with label Harrisonburg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Harrisonburg. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

VIDEOCLIP: Bluestone Vineyards

Deep in the Shenandoah Valley, near Harrisonburg, Bluestone Vineyards.
Enjoying vino on a hot summer day in 2011.

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Down in the Valley: Part III

The Shenandoah Valley AVA is a nearly 100-mile long stretch that begins north of Winchester and ends south of Lexington. Earlier this summer, we spotlighted the northern tip (Winchester) and southern tip (Lexington) of this region of farms, Americana towns, villages, and soil nicely drained by rivers and creeks running through the AVA, including the world famous Shenandoah River. The final stop is near the geographic center of the AVA - the Staunton/Harrisonburg area. Four very different wineries are within a few minutes drive from both of the Valley cities (Staunton/Harrisonburg and Waynesboro actually make up a "microplex," and share an airport--Shenandoah Valley Regional--which has commercial flights offered by United and Frontier Airlines).

Both Harrisonburg, home of James Madison University, and Staunton, home of several liberal arts schools, offer unique downtowns with numerous specialty shops and restaurants. And both cities have abundant hotels, motels and B&Bs, so dropping anchor after a day of tasting should pose no problem. Best of all, the towns are easy to get around - you don't have to drive far to get to VAVINOLAND.

Beginning in Staunton, you don't have far to go to visit the first winery: Ox-Eye Winery is the only Virginia tasting room located in a downtown section of a city in the Commonwealth. A few yards away from the hip wharf area of Staunton (home of the weekend farmer's market, several restaurants, and a great wine store), the Kiers family decided to place their tasting room in an urban environment, instead of having "just another winery next to a vineyard" (their vineyards are about eight miles from town). The tasting room and backyard patio are so irresistible, you may not want to leave. They open at 10 AM during the weekend, so you can get an early start. Wines you're more likely to find in upstate New York are the star whites here: Gewürztraminer, Traminette, and Riesling (the higher altitude in this part of Virginia allows these varietals to thrive here). Their steel aged Chardonnay is delicious, and they're the first Virginia we've visited that offers Lemberger, a spicy red that would pair well with a juicy steak, in any season.

The tasting room at Ox-Eye:

The aforementioned patio in the back is a perfect way to start (or end) your day. The patio is literally at the base of a mountain, and when the clock tower peals every hour, the sound echoes throughout the picturesque town. Shut your eyes and you could be in France or Germany.

As difficult as it might be, wrap it up at Ox-Eye after a few glasses (or a bottle), and jump back in the car to head north, towards Bridgewater and Harrisonburg. Your second stop is Bluestone Vineyard, which opened its doors about two and a half years ago and is already a regional, and state-wide, favorite. Surrounded by cornfields as well as vineyards, Bluestone already has an admirable number of vintages for its young age. Traminette and pinot noir are offered here as well; the blogmasters are still amazed at how well some spots in the Commonwealth excel at wines more commonly found in other states. Probably their most popular wine is a table white named Beau, after their golden retriever. This wine, the dog, and the proximity of James Madison University (for 21+ old females) probably explains why this wine is so popular. A bit too sweet for us, but would work very well on a 100 degree day with spicy food. Our favorite wine here was their Quartz Hill Red, a delicious blend of Cabernet Franc and Chambourcin, with powerful notes of currant and pomegranate.

Bluestone Vineyard:

Bluestone Vineyard lies on the western side of the I-88 corridor near Harrisonburg. A quick jaunt to the eastern side of the Interstate (after stopping in downtown Harrisonburg for lunch), near the airport, lies CrossKeys Vineyards. An impressive Mediterranean-style building and courtyard with tables and umbrellas greets visitors. The tasting room, like Bluestone, is usually hopping - once again, proximity to a large state university town doesn't hurt. Yet another pinot noir (who needs Oregon and California?!) is the standout wine here. One thing pinot noir fans will notice (for better or worse, depending on your taste buds) is that Virginia pinots have little in common with west coast pinots, in both character and alcohol content. These pinots are more mineraly, not too far removed from the cab francs that are found in nearly every tasting room in the state. But like Virginia wine in general, they do grow on you. CrossKeys is more of a red wine spot (while Bluestone is more of a white wine destination); however they do have a fine oaked (not too oaked) chardonnay here, with soft notes of vanilla. A table white called "Joy" was created for the fans of sweeter wines (there is a red table called "Joy" as well, a Chambourcin with a mild sweetness).

CrossKeys Vineyards:

CrossKeys was built with parties and weddings in mind, as well as winemaking, and if there happens to be a large event occurring while you visit, you won't have far to drive to escape that. The final stop is northeast of Harrisonburg, near the town of Stanley (on business route 340 towards Luray). Wisteria Vineyard is about as pure Virginia as you can get, complete with wandering farm animals, a mountain creek on the property, and a sipping porch. The first thing we noticed was the "back to nature" vibe of the location; if a winery existed near Woodstock, New York, it would probably resemble Wisteria. The wine is special, too. One red that was new to us is "Carmine," which is popular in California and resembles a lighter Merlot. They're the only winery in Virginia that offers this varietal. They have a Merlot as well, and their star white is their Traminette. This spot is a little further away from Harrisonburg/Staunton, and could be recommended for your drive back to the DC area. But it is certainly worth a visit--and it's one of the few wineries in the state that would appeal to children (courtesy of the free grazing farm animals).

Wisteria Vineyard:

The Shenandoah Valley of Virginia is a unique AVA that offers varietals you simply don't find in other parts of the state. With three sections of the valley bursting with flavor, the hardest decision is which part of the valley to pick (north, south, or central valley).

URLS:
Ox-Eye Winery
Bluestone Vineyard
CrossKeys Vineyards
Wisteria Vineyard

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Staunton Jaunt Video Clip II: Bluestone

A few miles up the road from downtown Staunton--Bluestone Vineyard, in Bridgewater, VA

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Virginia Winery Weekend Jaunt: Staunton

Staunton is a historic city deep in the Shenandoah Valley and is often bypassed by travelers heading north or south on Interstate 81, or west on I-64. To the blogmasters, it is a mostly undiscovered gem - a town with an eclectic vibe (Shakespeare lovers from all over the world flock to the famous theater - and the town's slogan is "As You Like It") and a place where artists and musicians co-exist side by side. Seemingly every restaurant, from the independent (not many Starbucks here) coffee houses to the pubs and wine bars, play jazz, blues, or rock. And the occasional country and folk music (this home to the Statler Brothers, after all).

Historically speaking, there is much to see here, from Woodrow Wilson's home and the museum dedicated to the controversial President, to the beautiful, recently restored Stonewall Jackson Hotel, to the strange, creepy asylum-looking structure outside of town, near one of the I-81 interchanges (close to the Wal-Mart and Lowes, for those taking notes). The restaurants are arguably more interesting than many in Northern Virginia or even DC - not many "Capitol Hill Egos" here.

Staunton is also a great Virginia wine getaway destination. The drive is a pleasant three hours from Northern Virginia; add an extra hour if you take a U.S. highway to avoid the Trucker's Paradise that is I-81. If you opt to take I-81, there are a few wineries worth checking out along the way.

CrossKeys Vineyards, east of Harrisonburg (a town about twenty miles north of Staunton), sits smack in the middle of the "bowl" created by the Blue Ridge on the east and the Alleghenies on the west. The Shenandoah Valley Regional Airport is near here (yes, they have commercial flights, most connecting through Dulles Airport or Atlanta). The owners of CrossKeys have designed an appealing Mediterranean (think Rome) location, with arched doorways and a large, airy patio. The tasting room is a bit small but allows for an informative tasting experience. This area of Virginia benefits from rich soil (thanks to drainage from the mountains) and certain vineyards are planted on high elevations. The result: Unusual wines (for the Commonwealth) like Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Gewürtraminer. CrossKeys has an interesting selection of both excellent reds and whites. Our favorites: The Pinot Noir (think mineraly vs. Oregon), Petit Verdot, "Tavern" (made with 100% touriga nacional), and a table white called "Joy White" (totally refreshing on the hot day we visited).

After leaving CrossKeys, head on U.S. highway 33 west, through downtown Harrisonburg, make a left onto state highway 42, follow 42 to the town of Bridgewater, cross the bridge and make a right onto Spring Creek Road. This road will take you to the new Bluestone Vineyard, surrounded by mountains, sloping vineyards, and cornfields (this is Virginia farm country and other crop is grown besides grapes!) The sloped vineyards allow for good drainage, but as we learned, can be a bit of a challenge during frost season. Keeping the rootstock above freezing in this part of the state is one of the obstacles for vineyard owners to overcome. This winery offers more whites than reds (although other red selections are coming). Another good summer option was the Vidal Blanc, refreshing and just the right amount of sweetness. Beau, named after their golden retriever, is their most popular and sweetest wine, and also works well in high humidity. Of the reds, the Cabernet Sauvignon (not a common varietel in the state) is very good.

Moving closer to Staunton, via either U.S. highway 11 or I-81 South, a stop at Barren Ridge Vineyards, east of Staunton (between Staunton and Waynesboro) is in order. One of our favorites in the area, the winery has been open for a few years now and has a solid fanbase, as our last visit proved. A new one for the writers offered by Barren Ridge is "Red Barren," a unique blend of Petit Verdot and Chambourcin. Barren Ridge is an old apple orchard and we're still waiting for that apple wine.....but in the meantime, their delicious rosé will do.

At this point, after three wineries, you may be tempted to stop, but there are two more places left on the list to visit! Either pull into town and check into your motel, hotel or B&B, or get your designated driver to push south of town, on the way to Natural Bridge, to Rockbridge Vineyard, one of the original Virginia wineries, with a tasting room as rustic as you can imagine (inside a large barn), and offering a wine for everyone. Their wines are sold throughout the state. Our favorites among the large offerings: Their reserve Pinot Noir, which actually won in a blind taste test we had with a Pinot from Oregon, California, and the Commonwealth! Their Meritage is also fantastic.

Double back to Staunton, and be sure to visit the latest jewel of the downtown "Wharf" district: Ox-Eye Vineyards. Actually, it's the Ox-Eye tasting room, as the vineyards are about eight miles outside of town. The owners decided to try something different, and put their tasting room in a popular section of downtown (which has a Farmer's Market nearly every Saturday of the year, during the spring, summer and fall). This means opening at 10 AM on Saturdays, and yes, the tasting room has a steady stream of people at 10 in the morning. Their wines are all winners, but keeping with the focus on whites, which worked for this very hot weekend, we imbibed with the Gewürtraminer and Chardonnay - which we were expecting to be a tad sweet and oaky, respectively, but we were knocked out by their smooth, tropical fruity, flavors. We enjoyed the patio in the back of the tasting room, enclosed in an arched "passage way" that seemed out of Europe. The clocktower pealed at one point and added to the European flavor.

Staunton is a town from another, simpler time. Farmers, actors, musicians, and west coast transplants have made the town into a mecca of hipness, with restaurants more interesting than most found in DC or nearby Charlottesville. And now, a bonafide wine trail!

CrossKeys Vineyards

Bluestone Vineyard

Barren Ridge Vineyards

Rockbridge Vineyard

Ox-Eye Vineyards