Virginia Wine Weekend Getaway Towns: Part 4

Continuing with our six-part examination of getaway spots in the Commonwealth where you can partake in Virginia's finest, and explore an interesting town while doing it, we move closer towards the Shenandoah Valley and focus on a town more famous for a cave than the town itself: Luray.

Luray Caverns needs no introduction. The most famous public cave on the East Coast (and some would argue the country), the caverns have left millions of visitors breathless. Virginia boasts several caverns in the state (Skyline, Shenandoah, and Dixie to name three others), and all of them offer photo ops galore. Luray is the most popular mainly due to its relentless advertising since the 1960s, and location other attractions affiliated with the tourist spot, including an auto museum and "Singing Tower Park," which features a carillon, directly across from the caverns.

The town was formerly (as recently as the early '80s) rather downtrodden, but the world popularity of the caverns and a vigorous town Chamber of Commerce publicity campaign starting in the mid '80s has allowed to town to prosper and grow into a best-kept secret destination with art galleries, charming stores, and farm to table restaurants.

If you add nearby Stanley (off U.S. highway business route 340), which has Americana small town charms of its own, you the makings of a terrific holiday weekend (heads up: one such holiday weekend is coming up!) There is a fine selection of restaurants in these two towns. Our favorites include Uncle Buck's, The Speakeasy, Gathering Grounds Cafe, and Countryside in Stanley.

Which leads us to the wineries. The first two are on the other side of Shenandoah National Park from Luray; if you approach Luray from the east, via U.S. highway 211, you can hit these two wineries on your way to the town. If you visit Luray via Interstate 81 on the west, these two wineries are a pleasant (and extremely scenic) 30 minutes from the town.

Sharp Rock Vineyards resides on our list of the most relaxing wineries in the Commonwealth. The Hughes River, which you cross via a one lane bridge leading up to the winery, is a favorite of fly fishermen/women, and the owners (Jimm and Kathy East) offer picnic tables, hammocks, and even an overnight cottage with a balcony over the river, for interested guests. The tasting room resides in a cozy cabin, with a nicely appointed sitting area outside. The views at this winery are, in short, breathtaking. Old Rag Mountain sits behind the winery and hikers gather in the tasting room after day hikes.

Sharp Rock Vineyards - one of the most scenic spots in the state:

Jimm owns one of the original Virginia wineries; we have been visiting his spot since the early '00s. He makes incredible wine. Rosé is our usual choice for our visits, however his Chardonnay, with green apple notes, and "Synergy" (his blend of Petit Verdot and Merlot) are noteworthy. Jimm or Kathy will keep you entertained during the tasting with stories about eccentric neighbors.

Sharp Rock Vineyards is a tough place to leave, but after spending a few hours here, you won't have far to go for the next location: DuCard Vineyards:

DuCard is situated in a "mountain cove," meaning you are surrounded by mountains on three sides. Like Sharp Rock, you are truly one with nature in another irresistible mountain location. The tasting building is eco-friendly green, and a bit slicker than the rustic cabin at Sharp Rock, but the tasting process is equally intimate at DuCard. Standout offerings include the Signature Viognier, with its honeysuckle and melon notes; Gibson Hollow White, off-dry and refreshing and a perfect summer cookout wine; and the Popham Run Red blend, a Meritage-like blend with bold notes of cherry and pepper.

More from DuCard Vineyards:

The final winery in this spotlight is a truly one-of-a-kind location near the town of Stanley. Wisteria Vineyard is a working farm, complete with free-roaming chickens and roosters and several sheep, with a European-meets-Woodstock (New York) feel. Acoustic live bands frequent this spot, which is off the beaten trail but well worth a visit. The property extends through the vineyards to several picnic areas, all with incredible views:

The varietals change here from year to year, it seems. Typically, Viognier and Chardonnay are styles offered. This is also one of the only Virginia wineries that offers a "Carmine" red; peppery and mineraly, similar to a fine Cab Franc, but smokier.

The vineyards give way to remote picnic areas near a creek - if you want to get lost at a winery, this is the place to do it.

As for overnight accommodations, Luray is well-covered. Several national chains have locations here, as well as the original Luray Caverns Motels (two locations in the town). For a "throwback" feel, try the Hillside Motel, a modest, clean motel with a spectacular view, east of town on route 211.

Plan a long weekend trip to these easily accessible (from Washington DC and Northern Virginia) towns and wineries this summer!
And be sure to visit our previous entries on Virginia Wine Weekend Getaway Towns.

Down in the Valley: Part III

The Shenandoah Valley AVA is a nearly 100-mile long stretch that begins north of Winchester and ends south of Lexington. Earlier this summer, we spotlighted the northern tip (Winchester) and southern tip (Lexington) of this region of farms, Americana towns, villages, and soil nicely drained by rivers and creeks running through the AVA, including the world famous Shenandoah River. The final stop is near the geographic center of the AVA - the Staunton/Harrisonburg area. Four very different wineries are within a few minutes drive from both of the Valley cities (Staunton/Harrisonburg and Waynesboro actually make up a "microplex," and share an airport--Shenandoah Valley Regional--which has commercial flights offered by United and Frontier Airlines).

Both Harrisonburg, home of James Madison University, and Staunton, home of several liberal arts schools, offer unique downtowns with numerous specialty shops and restaurants. And both cities have abundant hotels, motels and B&Bs, so dropping anchor after a day of tasting should pose no problem. Best of all, the towns are easy to get around - you don't have to drive far to get to VAVINOLAND.

Beginning in Staunton, you don't have far to go to visit the first winery: Ox-Eye Winery is the only Virginia tasting room located in a downtown section of a city in the Commonwealth. A few yards away from the hip wharf area of Staunton (home of the weekend farmer's market, several restaurants, and a great wine store), the Kiers family decided to place their tasting room in an urban environment, instead of having "just another winery next to a vineyard" (their vineyards are about eight miles from town). The tasting room and backyard patio are so irresistible, you may not want to leave. They open at 10 AM during the weekend, so you can get an early start. Wines you're more likely to find in upstate New York are the star whites here: Gewürztraminer, Traminette, and Riesling (the higher altitude in this part of Virginia allows these varietals to thrive here). Their steel aged Chardonnay is delicious, and they're the first Virginia we've visited that offers Lemberger, a spicy red that would pair well with a juicy steak, in any season.

The tasting room at Ox-Eye:

The aforementioned patio in the back is a perfect way to start (or end) your day. The patio is literally at the base of a mountain, and when the clock tower peals every hour, the sound echoes throughout the picturesque town. Shut your eyes and you could be in France or Germany.

As difficult as it might be, wrap it up at Ox-Eye after a few glasses (or a bottle), and jump back in the car to head north, towards Bridgewater and Harrisonburg. Your second stop is Bluestone Vineyard, which opened its doors about two and a half years ago and is already a regional, and state-wide, favorite. Surrounded by cornfields as well as vineyards, Bluestone already has an admirable number of vintages for its young age. Traminette and pinot noir are offered here as well; the blogmasters are still amazed at how well some spots in the Commonwealth excel at wines more commonly found in other states. Probably their most popular wine is a table white named Beau, after their golden retriever. This wine, the dog, and the proximity of James Madison University (for 21+ old females) probably explains why this wine is so popular. A bit too sweet for us, but would work very well on a 100 degree day with spicy food. Our favorite wine here was their Quartz Hill Red, a delicious blend of Cabernet Franc and Chambourcin, with powerful notes of currant and pomegranate.

Bluestone Vineyard:

Bluestone Vineyard lies on the western side of the I-88 corridor near Harrisonburg. A quick jaunt to the eastern side of the Interstate (after stopping in downtown Harrisonburg for lunch), near the airport, lies CrossKeys Vineyards. An impressive Mediterranean-style building and courtyard with tables and umbrellas greets visitors. The tasting room, like Bluestone, is usually hopping - once again, proximity to a large state university town doesn't hurt. Yet another pinot noir (who needs Oregon and California?!) is the standout wine here. One thing pinot noir fans will notice (for better or worse, depending on your taste buds) is that Virginia pinots have little in common with west coast pinots, in both character and alcohol content. These pinots are more mineraly, not too far removed from the cab francs that are found in nearly every tasting room in the state. But like Virginia wine in general, they do grow on you. CrossKeys is more of a red wine spot (while Bluestone is more of a white wine destination); however they do have a fine oaked (not too oaked) chardonnay here, with soft notes of vanilla. A table white called "Joy" was created for the fans of sweeter wines (there is a red table called "Joy" as well, a Chambourcin with a mild sweetness).

CrossKeys Vineyards:

CrossKeys was built with parties and weddings in mind, as well as winemaking, and if there happens to be a large event occurring while you visit, you won't have far to drive to escape that. The final stop is northeast of Harrisonburg, near the town of Stanley (on business route 340 towards Luray). Wisteria Vineyard is about as pure Virginia as you can get, complete with wandering farm animals, a mountain creek on the property, and a sipping porch. The first thing we noticed was the "back to nature" vibe of the location; if a winery existed near Woodstock, New York, it would probably resemble Wisteria. The wine is special, too. One red that was new to us is "Carmine," which is popular in California and resembles a lighter Merlot. They're the only winery in Virginia that offers this varietal. They have a Merlot as well, and their star white is their Traminette. This spot is a little further away from Harrisonburg/Staunton, and could be recommended for your drive back to the DC area. But it is certainly worth a visit--and it's one of the few wineries in the state that would appeal to children (courtesy of the free grazing farm animals).

Wisteria Vineyard:

The Shenandoah Valley of Virginia is a unique AVA that offers varietals you simply don't find in other parts of the state. With three sections of the valley bursting with flavor, the hardest decision is which part of the valley to pick (north, south, or central valley).

URLS:
Ox-Eye Winery
Bluestone Vineyard
CrossKeys Vineyards
Wisteria Vineyard

More New Kids in Town

The Virginia wine industry is thriving. One analyst believes Virginia will easily top 200 wineries by the end of the year, 106 less wineries than New York, which has held the #4 spot for several years (after California, Oregon and Washington). It may be tough for Virginia to overtake New York; that state's winery count is growing too, especially in the north fork of Long Island, which has been discovered as a great chardonnay growing region.

But in late 2010, early 2011, more wineries have arrived in the Commonwealth. And as the case with all Virginia wineries, no two are alike.

Wisteria Farm and Vineyard:
Located between the Shenandoah Valley towns of Luray and Stanley, this unique winery employs sustainable practices, and as its name indicates, is a working farm. Grassy paths criss-cross the large property, through vineyards, groves of trees, and a creek hugs the property. After the tasting, the owners invite all guests to wander the expansive property, soak up the mountain views, and relax on their many picnic tables. Roosters and sheep call in the distance.

We discovered that the rich soil caused by drainage in the Shenandoah Valley, plus the high elevation in some spots, allows for growing varietals not found elsewhere in the state: Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewürztraminer. Wisteria offers several typical Virginia whites, all good (but a bit on the sweet side): Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Traminette. Their reds include a fine Merlot and a wine we haven't seen anywhere else: Carmine. Apparently this hearty red is growing in popularity in California. It reminded us of a cross between Norton and Cab Sauv.

The location of this winery, near Luray, makes it a good destination for daytrippers visiting the town or the caverns. It's a bit hard to find (visit their website for directions), but well worth the effort.

Cobbler Mountain Cellars:
There is a section of Virginia we call the "Virginia Wine Highway;" state route 55, which runs parallel with I-66 in the Marshall/Delaplane/Linden area. Many wineries dot the landscape here, and two of the newest are Cobbler Mountain Cellars and Capitol Vineyards. Cobbler Mountain is one of the foothills of the Blue Ridge, and in its shadow is this irresistible new spot, tucked away deep in the hills, with a winery that also serves as the couple's home built into the slope of a steep hill. Like many other Virginia winery owners, Jeff and Laura escaped the Office Space world of Northern VA (Springfield, in their case) to pursue their dream: Grow grapes (and apples, in their case) and make great wine.

Cobbler Mountain Cellars has been open for several months, and they intend to keep their doors open all year long, even in the winter (their basement will serve as a tasting room and room to "unwine-d" in). Interestingly enough, both Cobbler Mountain Cellars and Capitol Vineyards favor reds over the whites. Cobbler offers a chardonnay and hard apple cider (you can't taste the alcohol--watch out!), both crisp and refreshing. Their winning reds are a Meritage, one of the best red blends we've had in ages, and their Cab Sauv (not many Virginia wineries offer Cab Sauv and this one is a treat). On the day we visited, a group of kids (19 to 22 years old) arrived carrying ukuleles and mandolins...."Fooly Kooly." The landscape of the property seems lifted from a Tolkien story, and the owners agree. Fooly Kooly played ear-pleasing and slightly haunting acoustic Irish folk songs that echoed throughout the property.
A great addition to the Virginia Wine Highway.

Capitol Vineyards:
Capitol Vineyards, near Linden, is operated by probably the youngest couple we've met (can we see their IDs?) The tasting room resides inside a cabin that served as a Post Office, and then a general store, in the early 20th Century. A bit crammed (we presume they will be using the farm house at the end of their driveway when word gets out about their winery), but intimate. Another red-heavy winery: Their sole white is a Traminette (a bit sweet and spicy). The reds are nearly identical to Cobbler Mountain. The Cab Sauv was our favorite; a little lighter than Cobbler Mountain's. The farm house at the end of the driveway may serve as a B&B in future years (the couple has high hopes for their little getaway for wine lovers). The freshly planted vineyards hug the side of a mountain foothill. At least four deer (including a fawn) treked through during our visit. No live bands, no traffic noise, and far from the wine buses and vans. Hopefully Capitol Vineyards will remain quaint.

Visit these new spots and tell 'em VAWINENB (and the Eagles) sent you!

Spring 2011 Weekend Winery Jaunt # 2 -- The 211 Trail

U.S. highway 211 has been a weekend getaway favorite of the blogmasters and hundreds of other longtime Northern VA residents for decades.

Clear the town of Warrenton, which has unfortunately become just as gridlocked as Gainesville, Haymarket, Manassas and other "exurb" hotspots, make that right turn at the Howard Johnson's (last renovation: 1978) on the Warrenton bypass onto U.S. 211 and drive drive drive……antique shopping and country store hopping for apple cider in Sperryville; cavern exploring in Luray; battlefield exploring in New Market---U.S. 211 will take you to all of these spots, not to mention the Panorama entry of Skyline Drive (and if you’re a real native of northern Virginia, you will recall the wonderful, but sadly closed, restaurant that used to exist here). Now there is another reason to daytrip on this highway--wineries! Several are clustered along highway 211, and as the case with all Virginia wineries, each one has a distinct look, feel and vino list.

After making that right turn in Warrenton, drive a quick eight miles and you'll arrive at the first spot: Unicorn Winery. Partake in their perfect spring and summer offerings (light wines, plus a bold Cab Franc and Meritage), say hi to their laid back dog "Franc," and sit by the pond, at a picnic table or on their deck. This location is only about half a mile from the main road, but feels a hundred miles away from any kind of civilization.

Turn back on to highway 211, and drive a few short miles further west, and make a left into Gray Ghost Vineyards. This spot has a slicker, more "events driven" feel to it than Unicorn, but the wines are stellar. And they make a lot of it here; you may have seen their wines at supermarkets in the area. Whites were the favorites of the blogmasters here, particularly the Vidal Blanc and Victorian White. Their deck overlooks the vineyards and the tasting room is a favorite for year-long residents of South Wales and other nearby communities.

Continuing on westbound 211, Narmada Winery is the next stop. The owners are from India and have wonderfully merged their Indian heritage with nearly every element of this winery, including the food pairings. "Reflection" and "Midnight" are two Chambourcin blends that proudly show off the uniqueness of this grape. The tasting room is large but intimate, and the deck overlooks the foothills. You could be tempted to stay at Narmada for the rest of the day, but push on.....

...To Gadino Cellars. Explore India, and then a bit of Italy, in one afternoon! Gadino Cellars keeps it all in the family, and after just one visit, you will feel like part of the family there. They make a lot of wine here, and all are very good, especially their Viognier and Cabernet Sauvignon. They offer two nicely priced table wines, a white (Sunset) and a rosé(Moonrise), which are great summer wines. Trees and rolling hills surround the tasting room, further proof that despite the proximity to other wineries, no two wineries have the same view.

If you still have the energy, a designated driver, and time has not run out, Sharp Rock Vineyards, DuCard Vineyards (discussed in the previous blog entry), and Wisteria Vineyard, past Luray (near the town of Stanley), are not far from Gadino Cellars.

And as an added plus, you may run into Harley riders going to, or coming from, Skyline Drive on this trail. Riders have become quite the wine fans over the past few years; twelve packs of Schlitz and Pabst have been replaced with cold bottles of Virginia's finest.