Virginia Wine Weekend Getaway Towns: Part 2

From the ocean to the bay to the hills and mountains, towns and villages in Virginia offer something for everyone. In Part 2 of our wine weekend getaway series, we will spotlight another section of the Commonwealth: The Northern Neck.

The Northern Neck is the peninsula surrounded on three sides by water: The Potomac River to the north, the Rappahannock River to the south, and the Chesapeake Bay to the east. This is a very historical area, rich in both Civil War and Revolutionary War sites, and is home to George Washington's birthplace. The terroir here is similar to that on the Eastern Shore, albeit a bit more clay mixing with the loamy, sandy soil found on the Eastern Shore. This means bold, Old World style reds and crisp, dry traditional white varietals like Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.

The Northern Neck is bisected by state route 3, which passes through several towns before meandering to the base of the peninsula near Kilmarnock, Irvington, and White Stone (near the mouth of the Rappahannock). Like the Eastern Shore, this area is a waterman's paradise, and as a quick getaway for the weekend could be preferred over the Eastern Shore, as there is no bay bridge (or bridge tunnel) to traverse.

Crabs and peanuts reign supreme here, and several wine varietals fare surprisingly well with both foods (including spiced crab flavored peanuts).

Despite the geographical size of the Northern Neck, it is easy traveled. There are no really big towns and no cities, and the roads rarely get congested. You could drop anchor at the lower end of the NN (in Irvington or Kilmarnock), or closer to the middle part of the peninsula (in Warsaw, or Tappanannock, which is across the Rappannock but only a stone's throw away from the river).

Because of the geographical scope of this region, we will violate our earlier rule and spotlight three wineries. If you begin the jaunt at the far end of the Northern Neck, Athena Vineyards is a perfect place to start. Athena is the perfect name for a winery owner by three nurses: Ada Jacox, Carol Spengler, and Ruth Harris. All three of these extremely gracious ladies possess PhDs, and their backgrounds must come in handy when negotiating the three branches of science involved in grape growing and winemaking: Geology, biology and chemistry, with a healthy dose of meteorology in there for good measure (respectively, from planting to wine creation).

The influence here is definitely Mediterranean, with the Chesapeake Bay being not far away and the vineyards overlooking one of its tributaries, the Great Wicomico River. Their spectrum of red and white varietals through the years includes nearly every wine the Commonwealth is known for: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Tannat, Chambourcin, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Vidal Blanc, Chardonnel, Seyval Blanc, Traminette, and Vignoles. Missing are Norton and Petit Manseng, although we understand the latter could be arriving in the future. Of the reds, all were solid winners, but our hands down favorite is Galleon's Treasure Red, 70% Chambourcin and 30% Cabernet Franc. This is an aromatic dry red wine that works great with ribs and other barbecued meats.

As for the whites, their Pinot Grigio was a favorite, very crisp and refreshing with notes of grapefruit and honeysuckle. We paired it with a grilled beer brat, and the pairing was perfect. Athena's White is an off-dry style (Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc) that pairs well with Chesapeake soft shell crabs. Their most intriguing wine is "Safe Harbor Red," an 18% port-style wine, available in a ship-shaped bottle (a perfect holiday gift). The tasting room is charming and and low-key and the hospitality of the owners makes it hard to leave.

But moving on.........driving back up the peninsula, through the town of Warsaw, look for signs for one of the most unusual wineries in the state, Belle Mount Vineyards. This location is unusual from the moment you pull into their gravel road. Belle Mount Vineyards is located on a camp ground that also rents full-furnished cabins (a steal at $95 a night during off-season). Owners Ray and Catherine Petrie bought the campground in the '90s and began experimenting with grape growing in the early '00s. Their wines are unique; there are no other wines in the state quite like them, despite coming from familiar varietals (Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot). This could be because their "picnic wines" (table blends) seem to overshadow the others in their tastes and labels (one wine comes packaged in a lighthouse bottle, which nicely compliments the ship bottle from Athena for those looking for gift ideas). The "Lighthouse White" is an off-dry blend similar to Athena's White.

The two table reds, Lighthouse Rouge and Workboat Red, are off-sweet Chambourcin-based blends, good for pairing with spiced shrimp, crabs or oysters that are the staple foods of this region in Virginia. The Notebook's favorite style here was the Chardonnay, just the right amount of oak, with notes of vanilla and nutmeg.

The location is directly on Cat Point Creek, a finger of the Rappahannock River. And completing the winery-in-a-campground vibe, a Coke machine is located right outside the tasting room.

The final destination on this wine tour of the Northern Neck is the creatively named The Hague Winery. Taking its name from the nearby town (Hague, VA, not "The Hague," VA), this location has its roots in tobacco history. Many vineyards in the Commonwealth were once tobacco fields, but you really feel the tobacco vibe here (in fact, the day we visited, the Great Dismal Swamp was burning due to a lightning storm, and the smoke carried as far as 100 miles north—the smoke in the air added to that tobacco sensation).

The Hague Winery vineyards:

Like Belle Mount, The Hague Winery offers a cottage for nightly rentals, making this another intimate alternative weekend getaway destination over the more crowded Charlottesville and Shenandoah Valley winery spots.

This wine is making its mark with Chardonel, a hybrid developed at Cornell University made from Chardonnal and Seyval grapes (hence the name) along with Petit Manseng. Currently, two Chardonels are offered: 2011 and 2013. The 2011 is the preferred (by the Notebook, at least), and won a Silver Medal at the 2013 Virginia's Governors Cup. Crisp and floral, with notes of almonds. The 2013 is not shabby either, drier in mouth feel than the 2011.

Merlot, Cab Franc and a very hearty (and worthy of comparisons to the best French Bordeauxs) 2010 Meritage represent the reds at The Hague. This Meritage is comprised of Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, and Cab Sauv, and seeing how 2010 was one of the best growing seasons for Virginia, the bottle will age for years. For the wine lover in your family, pick up a bottle ($29, which is about the average price of a less impressive wine from a Northern Virginia winery) and complete the trifecta you started with the Galleon's Treasure Red from Athena and Lighthouse White from Belle Mount.

The Hague is really a wonderful experience. Their outdoor seating is under a large pergola with a view of the vineyards, remaining plantation buildings and farm. Most likely you will not encounter the smoky air from a burning swamp when you visit, but you will most certainly get the feeling that this was a Colonial working farm.

Winery links (click on winery name):
Athena Vineyards
Belle Mount Vineyards
The Hague Winery

Accommodations:

Besides the cabins offered at Belle Mount and The Hague, there are several motels found in the towns on the Northern Neck, not to mention B&Bs.

Northern Neck Inn (Warsaw)
Holiday Inn Express (Kilmarnock)
Whispering Pines Motel (White Stone)
Days Inn (Tappahannock)

B&B Guide:
http://www.northernneck.com/lodging_inn.asp

Other wineries to visit on the Northern Neck:

Southern peninsula (Kilmarnock/Irvington area):
Good Luck Cellars
Jacey Vineyards

Middle peninsula (Warsaw/Montross area):
Vault Fields Vineyard
General's Ridge Vineyard

Northern peninsula (Colonial Beach area):
Ingleside Vineyards
Oak Crest Vineyard

Virginia Varietal Spotlight: Petit Verdot

To fans of Virginia wine, Cab Franc may be the be-all, end-all of red varietals common to the Commonwealth. As the earthy, smooth red grows so well in the state, it's easy to understand why (you'd be hard presssed to visit a Virginia winery that does not offer a Cab Franc). But other reds are snapping at Cab Franc's heels, with promises to stand beside Franc as the signature red representing the state.

Petit Verdot belongs on that list of reds, along with Norton, Chambourcin, and up and comers like Lemberger. Petit Verdot is known throughout the world as a Bordeaux blend, commonly used along with Merlot, Malbec, Cab Franc and/or Cab Sauv, to create popular wines such as Meritage. When used for blending, Petit Verdot is usually on the lower end of the scale (below 10% in some cases), mainly to add tanins and complexity to the wine. However stand-alone Petit Verdot is gaining acclaim and popularity, especially in Virginia (as well as California, Texas and Washington state), due to its ability to age gracefully and accompany hearty meat dishes. But, like many other unique New World reds, stand-alone Petit Verdot may get some getting used to.

We discovered stand-alone Petit Verdot about seven years ago at Glen Manor Vineyards. Their 2005 Petit Verdot is the most prized bottle on David's wine rack, at the time pretty expensive ($28), but getting better by the year. Given its complex character, the notes that surround Petit Verdot range from vanilla and nutmeg to blackberry and plum to licorace and molasses. Petit Verdot tends to have a high alcohol content, only adding to its ability to age gracefully. Most Petit Verdots from a recent year that we've tried had a bit too much bite to them. In the "open and enjoy now" mindset of many new Virginia wine fans, these notes don't lend well to picking up bottles to go. As a result, most Virginia wineries grow Petit Verdot mainly to blend with other reds.

Glen Manor Vineyards does not offer a stand-alone Petit Verdot at this time. Following in the lead set by winemaker Jeff White's mentor Jim Law of Linden Vineyards, Glen Manor only develops the grape into a stand-alone wine if the growing season and harvest is perfectly suited to the varietal. And given the unpredictable nature of Virginia's weather, this is fairly rare. Besides 2005, Glen Manor offered 2007 and 2009 vintages of Petit Verdot (there is something about those odd numbered years).

Where to try stand-alone Petit Verdot now:

If you don't feel like waiting for the next International Award winning Petit Verdot produced by Glen Manor, there are other wineries in the state that offer it; their Petit Verdots may not be the perfectionist quality of Glen Manor, but some drinkers may actually prefer the wines offered by other locations. With wine, it's all about the taste buds of the participant. Below are wineries (hyperlinked to website) that offer distinctive Petit Verdots. Give it a try. And imagine this wine with a juicy steak or warm bowl of stew.

Ingleside Vineyards (Northern Neck)
General's Ridge Vineyards (Northern Neck)
Potomac Point Winery (Stafford)
James River Cellars (north of Richmond)
Willowcroft (Loudoun County)
Roger's Ford Winery (near Culpeper)

Northern Neck tour: Vault Field vineyards

Small winery on Virginia's Northern Neck - tasting room in garage. The focus is the wine.

Northern Neck tour: General's Ridge Video Clip 1

General's Ridge vineyards, Northern Neck.

Northern Neck tour: The Hague Vineyards

First stop (August 2011. Sorry about the poor volume near the end (wind noise).

Northern Neck: Virginia's Bordeaux?

The Northern Neck of Virginia is a peninsula between the Potomac and Rappahannock rivers. Breezes coming off the two rivers, plus the Chesapeake Bay to the east, and the rich soil, make this region of Virginia different from the central plain and mountainous wine-growing regions. An early morning drive south (on I-95, U.S. route 1 or U.S. 301--pick your poison) will take you to route 17 north of Fredericksburg. Once you clear Fredericksburg, a charming town that unfortunately has become a traffic-clogged exurb of Washington, D.C., the traffic lights give way to flat terrain with marshland and creeks criss-crossing the highway.

We heard from Athena Vineyards, near the bottom of the Northern Neck, that the Bordeaux region of France is actually closer to this region of Virginia than California, and the latitude, soil and waterways are similar. As a result, this area of Virginia amazed us with their red offerings. Hearty, spicey and perfect fall and winter varietals: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc (of course), Petit Verdot and Pinot Noir. These wines excel on the Northern Neck. You won't get mountain views here and fancy, limo-ready tasting rooms. But what you will get are (mostly) small, quality-focused wineries, laid-back vibes, and all the Virginia peanuts you can indulge in while tasting.

After attempting to visit White Fences Vineyards, which we've seen at numerous festivals in the Commonwealth but sadly closed its doors (another winery will be taking its place---"Dogs and Oysters," or something to that affect), we continued northwest on state highway 3 and paid a visit to Vault Field Vineyards. This is a bare-bones operation; we asked about their tasting room and picnic area (both non-existent; the tasting room is in their barrel room and no tables are available): "We'll get around to that after we perfect these wines" was their retort. The wines are uniformly excellent and well-priced. The white that stood out was their Vidal Blanc: Crisp, not too sweet, and nice notes of tangerine and honey. The reds were the star. One simply called "Red," a blend of Merlot and Syrah, available as a regular blend and a reserve blend (bolder and drier).

Next stop, the new General's Ridge Vineyard. They were busy picking pinot noir grapes when we visited. This pinot noir has a kick: Don't expect smooth northern California or Oregon. The fruit does well thanks to the cooler evenings between the two rivers. But General's Ridge makes it bold. The reds once again were the stars. A table red and our favorite of the bunch, named after the county and General (Westmoreland). A Bordeaux blend, and at $14 a bottle, an absolute steal. They have big plans for General's Ridge Vineyard. The wood in the events building still smelled fresh. Trees hug the events building at every angle.

On to The Hague Winery, a clever twist on the town within a stones throw away from the tasting room (Hague). Smoke engulfed the vineyards (due to the Great Dismal Swamp fire, which was 100 miles south of us). The staff apologized for the "smoke on the vineyards" (cue music), but after two wineries, smoke wasn't an issue. Once again, the reds blew us away. This time, a pure Petit Verdot (a steak-lover's varietal), Merlot and a Meritage blend. Not to be eclipsed by the reds, The Hague offers an intriguing white we've seen in only a handful of wineries on the east coast: Chardonel. A hybrid of Chardonnay and Seyval, this varietal was developed in the Finger Lakes region and, like pinot noir, thrives in moderated microclimates. The two rivers of the Northern Neck allow these wineries to offer varietals you rarely see in the rest of the Commonwealth.

Final stop: Ingleside Vineyards. This is one of the original Virginia wineries and is a large commercial operation, complete with a "Virginia Indian museum" near the courtyard. A wine for everyone: Red, white, rosé, sweet, dry, inexpensive, pricey. Ingleside has two labels (Ingleside and Chesapeake) and offers two different tastings ("table wine" tasting and premium). Strangely enough, the red that worked best for us after this day of inhaling smoke and soaking up Bordeaux-like vintages, was their $12.95 Cab Franc/Merlot blend (on the Chesapeake label). You've probably seen their wines at Safeway and Harris Teeter; they are the "Horton" of the Northern Neck. And their courtyard is a perfect place to "wined down."

For the upcoming fall months, will it be a mountain getaway, or a waterman's paradise getaway? Decisions, decisions......another Northern Neck spot that deserves a mention is Belle Mount, the only winery we've visited inside a campground. The owner and winemaker, Ray Petrie, was incredibly hospitable and even gave us a free DVD spotlighting the Northern Neck wineries. His wines were a bit on the sweet side, but a white wine inside a lighthouse shaped bottle? Sold!