If you've made the trek to Skyline Drive or Luray Caverns, most likely you've driven through Sperryville, a picturesque village on U.S. highway 211. Located at the base of the mountain you'll drive up after entering Shenandoah National Park (longtime Virginia residents may remember the Panorama cafeteria-style restaurant near the Skyline Drive interchange), Sperryville and its historic district is listed on the Virginia Landmarks Registry and the National Register of Historic Places.
And yes, several vineyards with incredible views are not far away. U.S. highway 211, past Warrenton, will soon be "one winery after another" (similar to Sonoma and Napa), at the rate the wineries are opening. Sperryville is usually mentioned in the same breath as "Little" Washington, Virginia, a yippie-dominated village with a swank inn that needs no introduction.
After exploring Sperryville on foot for an hour, drive south of the village on route 231 (about 12 miles) to the village (more of a crossroads) of Etlan. Follow signs (or your map) to DuCard Vineyards. This "green" winery (in terms of the environment, not the wine or the experience of the winemakers) is another in a series of newer Virginia locations that utilizes sustainable practices in its operation to keep it "off the grid" as much as possible. The first thing many people notice are the solar panels on the tasting room roof. The wine isn't too shabby either. The Viognier is a dry winner, with a slight nuance of honeysuckle and apricot. Our favorite red is Popham Run Red (named after the creek that flows through the property), a rich blend that would be perfect with a steak cooked on charcoal (not gas grill---charcoal).
There are old apple trees on the property that still bear fruit (an apple orchard called this spot home many years ago). But as of this writing, there is no apple wine offered...maybe in a few years, after the owners master grapes, they'll take a crack at the steadily growing apple wine and hard cider market in Virginia.
Doubling back towards Sperryville on route 231, the next winery is about ten minutes from DuCard--Sharp Rock Vineyards. This is the oldest winery in the Sperryville area, and is so close to Old Rag Mountain you can practically touch it. The tasting room is a lot more rustic than DuCard, with a tight tasting room, but you will have a memorable exchange with one of the owners (the owners are a husband and wife team) - ask Jimm about the old winery/mead operation Smokehouse Winery, which used to exist up the road from Sharp Rock, of if you encounter Kathy, ask her about her animated neighbor and her chickens.
The wines are exceptional, and well priced. The chardonnay is unoaked and delicious, especially slightly chilled. Other perfect summer picnic winners are the Sauvignon Blanc and their two rosés. Snag a spot by the Hughes River (you'll cross it a few times during your drive) and cue up the John Denver. Almost Heaven should be the name of one of their wines. (And if you drink too much, they have a guest cottage overlooking the stream you can book for the night, provided it hasn't been reserved...it is a popular spot).
The next two wineries are east of Sperryville, heading back towards Warrenton. Gadino Cellars, about a mile off route 211, is a family-friendly, Italian-themed location with views of rolling foothills and meadows (it's hard to believe the spot is only a mile away from a busy U.S. highway). Every now and then you may hear the rumblings of motorcycles on their way to Skyline Drive, but don't let that distort your experience here. There is a wine for everyone here: Dry, semi dry, sweet, dessert. Pinot Grigio was our favorite white, and for more picnic sipping, Sunset and Moonrise (a table white and red) are perfect. By far the best red we've had here is their Imagine, a blend of Chambourcin, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Zesty and delicious, and further proof that Virginia has come a long way with their reds.
The final stop is Narmada Winery, also off 211 on the way back to Warrenton, which has been open for about two years now, and promises a cultural experience as well as a wine experience. The winery is owned and operated by an Indian family who frequently pair their tastings with savory food from their country. Chambourcin rules supreme here: Reds named "Midnight," "Reflection," and "Primita" are three examples of how versatile this Virginia favorite is. Narmada also offers several red blends, all on the hearty side. And what would go well with a curry infused dish? One of their whites, particularly the off-dry or off-sweet options: "Lotus" or "Dream" (try them chilled).
There are a few other locations off 211 you may have time to wander into, or visit the next day if you're well off enough to check in to the Inn at Little Washington: The new Little Washington Winery (offering wines from Virginia, as well as other "new" wine states like Idaho), Grey Ghost Vineyards, and Unicorn Winery. And if you have a designated driver, you can always return to Sperryville and Skyline Drive for some "Virginia Mountain High" life.
DuCard Vineyards
Sharp Rock Vineyards
Gadino Cellars
Narmada Winery
Little Washington Winery
Grey Ghost Vineyards
Unicorn Winery
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Monday, April 9, 2012
Village Wine Stop #3: Waterford
Waterford is in the middle of Loudoun County, but it may as well be in the middle of rural central Pennsylvania. There is something decidely Lancaster Dutch-like about this village. Maybe it's the age of the village itself (1733). Or maybe it's the Quaker history of the village. Or the rolling hills leading to narrow streets in the village itself. Having the town as a home residence name on your address instantly increases your property value. This is the quiet Middleburg. Don't expect fancy dress shops and restaurants here. But there are several unique and highly underrated wineries surrounding the village.
Corcoran Vineyards was actually named Waterford Vineyards several years ago, until a certain crystal manufacturing company took note and sent them a not-so-nice letter. Lori Corcoran is the popular winemaker here, and in addition to making the excellent product at her winery, acts as a tasting room manager at nearby Sunset Hills Vineyard on an ad hoc basis. There are several fun "summer whites" here, perfect for chilling: Traminette, Cello (Petit Manseng), and a delicious apple wine. But the stand outs are the reds, in particular their Chambourcin and rosé, made from the Chambourcin. The tasting room is rather tight, inside a small cabin, and the property does have a few McMansions within sight (welcome to Loudoun county), but there is an intimacy here missing from many wineries in the county. Corcoran recently got into the brewery mold, and you can dabble in craft beer on the same visit as their brewery is very close to the winery.
Sunset Hills Vineyard is a totally different world than Corcoran - bustling, full of wine enthusiasts as well as what we call "the amateurs," there for one reason and one reason only--get sloshed. But Sunset Hills proves that bustling and commercial does not equate to inferior. Many of their wines are award-winners, and the tasting room is located inside a barn restored several years ago by Amish builders (another link to Pennsylvania). The owners, Mike and Diane Canney, are frequently onsite. Mike left a lucrative career as a nuclear physicist in Reston (Sunset Hills is actually named after the road his company was located on), and also races cars in his spare time. Being a scientist, he is very analyical and admits that his first vineyard was planted improperly. Now he has four distinct vineyards and specializes in Viognier, Cab Franc, and Cab Sauv. A Petit Verdot is on the way.
Village Winery is properly named, just a stones' throw away from the Waterford village limits. Owner/winemaker Kent Marrs is a Kansas native with planting and harvesting in his blood. All of his wines are entirely hand-crafted - no mechanical pumps (more Amish influence, perhaps?) His Petit Verdot stood out as a big bold red, and he has a fun apple wine as well as a few typical Virginia offerings (Viognier, Merlot, Cab Franc). However the big draw here is his elderberry products: Not only wine, but chocolate/elderberry syrup for desserts, a sparkling beverage with no alcohol, and a vinaigrette salad dressing. The tasting room is located inside a quaint, rather drafty barn, and there are plenty of picnic tables surrounding the rustic barn.
Casanel Vineyards is a blogmaster favorite, sandwiched between the Waterford area of Loudoun county and the small town of Hamilton. Named after owners Nelson and Casey DeSouza, the tasting room is a family affair, and usually every member of the family can be spotted there. Nelson is an entertaining native of Brazil who came to the U.S. and spent years as a successful construction contractor. Currently Nelson is working on an adjacent tasting room for buses, limos and loud bachelorette parties, "so our loyal longtime guests can enjoy a quiet tasting and we can still expand to appeal to big groups." It's a great idea and would be fantastic if other wineries followed his lead. Their Viognier is excellent--crisp with just the right amount of citrus tartness, and perfect chilled. The reds are the stars here: Norton and Merlot, in particular. Both are recent award winners. Grab a bottle for their gazebo located in a pond (you read right). Three Fox has its table in the sky. Casanel has its table in the pond.
The last stop is only a mile from downtown Leesburg: Dry Mill Vineyards. The horse on the label comes from the history of the barn that serves as the tasting room--this was once home to the horses of the Loudoun Hunt Club. The barn is a combination of the very rustic spot in Village Winery and the restored, highly impressive barn at Sunset Hills. And a corporate meeting room exists above the tasting room, for your next business meeting. Wines are good to outstanding, most under $20. Their two chardonnays (one steel barrel aged, the other oak) are worth trying back to back, to get a feel for what your palate prefers (steel vs. oak). Dry Mill is another location doing great things with Chambourcin, which is well on its way to join Cab Franc and Petit Verdot as official Virginia reds.
Loudoun County now has more wineries than many U.S. states. Waterford is a perfect starting point to branch out and experience a few lesser-known spots in the county.
Corcoran Vineyards
Sunset Hills Vineyard
Village Winery
Casanel Vineyards
Dry Mill Vineyards
Corcoran Vineyards was actually named Waterford Vineyards several years ago, until a certain crystal manufacturing company took note and sent them a not-so-nice letter. Lori Corcoran is the popular winemaker here, and in addition to making the excellent product at her winery, acts as a tasting room manager at nearby Sunset Hills Vineyard on an ad hoc basis. There are several fun "summer whites" here, perfect for chilling: Traminette, Cello (Petit Manseng), and a delicious apple wine. But the stand outs are the reds, in particular their Chambourcin and rosé, made from the Chambourcin. The tasting room is rather tight, inside a small cabin, and the property does have a few McMansions within sight (welcome to Loudoun county), but there is an intimacy here missing from many wineries in the county. Corcoran recently got into the brewery mold, and you can dabble in craft beer on the same visit as their brewery is very close to the winery.
Sunset Hills Vineyard is a totally different world than Corcoran - bustling, full of wine enthusiasts as well as what we call "the amateurs," there for one reason and one reason only--get sloshed. But Sunset Hills proves that bustling and commercial does not equate to inferior. Many of their wines are award-winners, and the tasting room is located inside a barn restored several years ago by Amish builders (another link to Pennsylvania). The owners, Mike and Diane Canney, are frequently onsite. Mike left a lucrative career as a nuclear physicist in Reston (Sunset Hills is actually named after the road his company was located on), and also races cars in his spare time. Being a scientist, he is very analyical and admits that his first vineyard was planted improperly. Now he has four distinct vineyards and specializes in Viognier, Cab Franc, and Cab Sauv. A Petit Verdot is on the way.
Village Winery is properly named, just a stones' throw away from the Waterford village limits. Owner/winemaker Kent Marrs is a Kansas native with planting and harvesting in his blood. All of his wines are entirely hand-crafted - no mechanical pumps (more Amish influence, perhaps?) His Petit Verdot stood out as a big bold red, and he has a fun apple wine as well as a few typical Virginia offerings (Viognier, Merlot, Cab Franc). However the big draw here is his elderberry products: Not only wine, but chocolate/elderberry syrup for desserts, a sparkling beverage with no alcohol, and a vinaigrette salad dressing. The tasting room is located inside a quaint, rather drafty barn, and there are plenty of picnic tables surrounding the rustic barn.
Casanel Vineyards is a blogmaster favorite, sandwiched between the Waterford area of Loudoun county and the small town of Hamilton. Named after owners Nelson and Casey DeSouza, the tasting room is a family affair, and usually every member of the family can be spotted there. Nelson is an entertaining native of Brazil who came to the U.S. and spent years as a successful construction contractor. Currently Nelson is working on an adjacent tasting room for buses, limos and loud bachelorette parties, "so our loyal longtime guests can enjoy a quiet tasting and we can still expand to appeal to big groups." It's a great idea and would be fantastic if other wineries followed his lead. Their Viognier is excellent--crisp with just the right amount of citrus tartness, and perfect chilled. The reds are the stars here: Norton and Merlot, in particular. Both are recent award winners. Grab a bottle for their gazebo located in a pond (you read right). Three Fox has its table in the sky. Casanel has its table in the pond.
The last stop is only a mile from downtown Leesburg: Dry Mill Vineyards. The horse on the label comes from the history of the barn that serves as the tasting room--this was once home to the horses of the Loudoun Hunt Club. The barn is a combination of the very rustic spot in Village Winery and the restored, highly impressive barn at Sunset Hills. And a corporate meeting room exists above the tasting room, for your next business meeting. Wines are good to outstanding, most under $20. Their two chardonnays (one steel barrel aged, the other oak) are worth trying back to back, to get a feel for what your palate prefers (steel vs. oak). Dry Mill is another location doing great things with Chambourcin, which is well on its way to join Cab Franc and Petit Verdot as official Virginia reds.
Loudoun County now has more wineries than many U.S. states. Waterford is a perfect starting point to branch out and experience a few lesser-known spots in the county.
Corcoran Vineyards
Sunset Hills Vineyard
Village Winery
Casanel Vineyards
Dry Mill Vineyards
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Village Wine Stop #2: Delaplane
"Where, exactly, IS Delaplane?" Long-time northern Virginia residents will recognize the name Delaplane - one time home of Willard Scott and Robert Duvall; some "place" near Marshall and The Plains on the way to Skyline Drive; the name that appears on GPS systems along route 66. But where is the place? It's a crossroads, near the railroad tracks, right off Exit 23, and offers a general store, a post office, and an antiques shop. But Delaplane also offers a bonafide wine loop - some call this area the "mini Napa" of Northern Virginia. TEN wineries, all unique in their own ways, within seven miles of each other.
A list of these ten wineries can be found under this blog entry, but we will spotlight four of them, for a nice cross-section of this mini Napa.
Barrel Oak Winery, affectionately called "BOW," is a northern Virginia favorite, and despite only being open for about five years, is already an institution in the world of Virginia wine. Owner Brian Roeder is the always upbeat host, his wife Sharon is the head winemaker, and the place is always buzzing on the weekends (visit during the week for a more intimate experience). This winery has gone to the dogs. In a good way. A visit to this vineyard is like a Best in Show dog contest: You'll see dogs of every shape and size. The wines aren't too shabby: Our favorites remain their "pizza wines" (table white and table red--named Bowhaus White and Red). Their petit verdot is a bold award winner (for the other side of the wine spectrum). Their wines are a bit pricey compared to other wineries in the area, probably due to the constant improvements Brian makes to his property. And despite how busy the location is during the weekend, you can always be guaranteed a picnic table on the sloping hill.
A few minutes away from BOW is Three Fox Vineyards, up a steep grade near the railroad tracks and Goose Creek. Three Fox is home to some wonderfully dry white wines, as well as a smooth merlot (silver medal winner in the 2012 Governor's Cup). Three Fox has a great property for spreading out--name your pleasure. Relaxing on a hammock? Check. Picnic by the babbling creek? Check. "Unwined" near the tasting room on the patio? Check. Grab their famous "table in the sky" (a picnic table perched on a hilltop)? Check. Become their Facebook friend for special deals.
Further down the road, past the village of Delaplane, lies Vintage Ridge Vineyards. This location is unique in that they specialize in sit-down tastings where light food is paired with their vino offerings. On a warm day, take your seat on their patio overlooking the Blue Ridge foothills, and mellow out with a glass or bottle of the blogmasters favorites: "Summer Night" (vidal blanc) or delicious syrah.
Delaplane Cellars is the final spotlighted location in this "winery congested" section of Fauquier County. The tasting room is on a slope overlooking the mountains, and the whole location is environmentally friendly and airy. The stars here are the viogniers: A light one (LoCo Viognier) and a bolder one (Maggie's Vineyard Viognier). The Williams Gap red is a true meat lovers red, a blend of Cab Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot.
No longer just a crossroads, Delaplane is the heart of the Fauquier County wine trail and rumor has it a white oval bumper sticker is on the way: DELA.
Barrel Oak Winery
Three Fox Vineyards
Vintage Ridge Vineyards
Delaplane Vineyards
Additional Delaplane-area wineries:
Miracle Valley Vineyard
Cobbler Mountain Cellars
Aspen Dale Winery
Naked Mountain Winery
Capitol Vineyards
Linden Vineyards
A list of these ten wineries can be found under this blog entry, but we will spotlight four of them, for a nice cross-section of this mini Napa.
Barrel Oak Winery, affectionately called "BOW," is a northern Virginia favorite, and despite only being open for about five years, is already an institution in the world of Virginia wine. Owner Brian Roeder is the always upbeat host, his wife Sharon is the head winemaker, and the place is always buzzing on the weekends (visit during the week for a more intimate experience). This winery has gone to the dogs. In a good way. A visit to this vineyard is like a Best in Show dog contest: You'll see dogs of every shape and size. The wines aren't too shabby: Our favorites remain their "pizza wines" (table white and table red--named Bowhaus White and Red). Their petit verdot is a bold award winner (for the other side of the wine spectrum). Their wines are a bit pricey compared to other wineries in the area, probably due to the constant improvements Brian makes to his property. And despite how busy the location is during the weekend, you can always be guaranteed a picnic table on the sloping hill.
A few minutes away from BOW is Three Fox Vineyards, up a steep grade near the railroad tracks and Goose Creek. Three Fox is home to some wonderfully dry white wines, as well as a smooth merlot (silver medal winner in the 2012 Governor's Cup). Three Fox has a great property for spreading out--name your pleasure. Relaxing on a hammock? Check. Picnic by the babbling creek? Check. "Unwined" near the tasting room on the patio? Check. Grab their famous "table in the sky" (a picnic table perched on a hilltop)? Check. Become their Facebook friend for special deals.
Further down the road, past the village of Delaplane, lies Vintage Ridge Vineyards. This location is unique in that they specialize in sit-down tastings where light food is paired with their vino offerings. On a warm day, take your seat on their patio overlooking the Blue Ridge foothills, and mellow out with a glass or bottle of the blogmasters favorites: "Summer Night" (vidal blanc) or delicious syrah.
Delaplane Cellars is the final spotlighted location in this "winery congested" section of Fauquier County. The tasting room is on a slope overlooking the mountains, and the whole location is environmentally friendly and airy. The stars here are the viogniers: A light one (LoCo Viognier) and a bolder one (Maggie's Vineyard Viognier). The Williams Gap red is a true meat lovers red, a blend of Cab Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot.
No longer just a crossroads, Delaplane is the heart of the Fauquier County wine trail and rumor has it a white oval bumper sticker is on the way: DELA.
Barrel Oak Winery
Three Fox Vineyards
Vintage Ridge Vineyards
Delaplane Vineyards
Additional Delaplane-area wineries:
Miracle Valley Vineyard
Cobbler Mountain Cellars
Aspen Dale Winery
Naked Mountain Winery
Capitol Vineyards
Linden Vineyards
Saturday, March 24, 2012
Village Wine Stop #1: Middleburg
Middleburg is one of those northern Virginia villages featured in nearly every tourist guide and regional magazine at least three times per year. It is the center of northern Virginia horse and fox hunt country. The Safeway in the middle of town is the poshest Safeway you'll probably ever visit. Gridlock on a typical spring weekend day is nearly as bad as Old Town Alexandria. For our money, Middleburg the town is overrated. But there's hope as Middleburg features a few winning wineries a stone's throw away from town.
The first stop is arguably one of the most unique locations in the state (as far as Virginia wineries go): Quattro Goomba's Winery. This winery brings grapes in from California, Italy and Chile, and makes the wine in Virginia. Evidently Quattro Goomba's will be acquiring grapes from Breaux in the future, so a Virginia-grown product will be offered as well. The wines currently offered were a bit on the sweet side, but adequate. Like other wineries in the region, Quattro Goombas usually has a live band during the weekend, which continues to spoil the wine tasting mood for the blogmasters. We would rate Quattro Goomba's high for those just getting into the Virginia wine scene - you get the vistas of the Virginia countryside, the friendly staff, the generous tastings, but you don't get Virginia wine (yet).
Drive westbound on U.S. route 50 and follow the signs to Chrysalis Vineyards, the home of Norton, Virginia's original grape. If you want to experiment with this unique red, there is no better place to do it. Chrysalis is one of the original Virginia vineyards, and boasts a pictureseque setting amid the hills of fox hunt country. The tasting room and process is a bit small and confusing (respectively), and some of the wines were too sweet for our tastes, but for a Norton experience in Northern Virginia, Chrysalis Vineyards is worth a stop.
Swedenburg Estate Vineyard has its property right outside the town limits of Middleburg. This is our favorite winery in the region - wines are dry, Old World-style winners. Juanita Swedenburg was a pioneer of the Virginia wine industry, and fought long and hard for the state's now-flexible wine laws. Her spirit lives on as her son and grandchildren carry on with managing the vineyards. Despite being so close to the town, the vineyards and picnic area seem to be miles away. This is definitely a better warm weather spot as the tasting room is small and offers few tables (our only gripe about Swedenburg Estate Vineyard). The pinot noir itself is worth a visit, but stay to enjoy the mountain views and quiet vineyard setting.
Piedmont Vineyards, south of Middleburg (on the way to Delaplane), is another Virginia wine original. This is one of the oldest wineries in the Commonwealth, established in 1973. The owner/winemaker is a German gentleman who may put some off with his gruffness at first (he's all about his wine and making sure his guests have an intimate experience), but he warms up as soon as you start asking questions. Try the unoaked Hunt Country Chardonnay and the Hunt Country Red, a perfect sangria base.
The final stop on your tour could very well be Boxwood Winery, which the blogmasters have not visited. The slickness and formality of this place turns us off (you need an appointment to take a tour and try their wines at the winery). However you can try their wines at their satellite tasting rooms in downtown Middleburg or Reston Town Center. Their signature red, Boxwood, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and is incredibly good, but not better than many other more affordable wines we've had in the region. But due to its location near Middleburg, and the fact that the property (gated of course) is so impressive, it deserves a mention.
There is no shortage of restaurants in Middleburg to find food to soak up your vino experience (although we were sad to see our favorite restaurant in the area, the Hidden Horse Tavern, closed on the last visit). Pick your spot, or tour all of them, and enjoy a daycation away from the Beltway madness.
Quattro Goomba's Winery
Chrysalis Vineyards
Swedenburg Estate Vineyard
Piedmont Vineyards
Boxwood Winery
The first stop is arguably one of the most unique locations in the state (as far as Virginia wineries go): Quattro Goomba's Winery. This winery brings grapes in from California, Italy and Chile, and makes the wine in Virginia. Evidently Quattro Goomba's will be acquiring grapes from Breaux in the future, so a Virginia-grown product will be offered as well. The wines currently offered were a bit on the sweet side, but adequate. Like other wineries in the region, Quattro Goombas usually has a live band during the weekend, which continues to spoil the wine tasting mood for the blogmasters. We would rate Quattro Goomba's high for those just getting into the Virginia wine scene - you get the vistas of the Virginia countryside, the friendly staff, the generous tastings, but you don't get Virginia wine (yet).
Drive westbound on U.S. route 50 and follow the signs to Chrysalis Vineyards, the home of Norton, Virginia's original grape. If you want to experiment with this unique red, there is no better place to do it. Chrysalis is one of the original Virginia vineyards, and boasts a pictureseque setting amid the hills of fox hunt country. The tasting room and process is a bit small and confusing (respectively), and some of the wines were too sweet for our tastes, but for a Norton experience in Northern Virginia, Chrysalis Vineyards is worth a stop.
Swedenburg Estate Vineyard has its property right outside the town limits of Middleburg. This is our favorite winery in the region - wines are dry, Old World-style winners. Juanita Swedenburg was a pioneer of the Virginia wine industry, and fought long and hard for the state's now-flexible wine laws. Her spirit lives on as her son and grandchildren carry on with managing the vineyards. Despite being so close to the town, the vineyards and picnic area seem to be miles away. This is definitely a better warm weather spot as the tasting room is small and offers few tables (our only gripe about Swedenburg Estate Vineyard). The pinot noir itself is worth a visit, but stay to enjoy the mountain views and quiet vineyard setting.
Piedmont Vineyards, south of Middleburg (on the way to Delaplane), is another Virginia wine original. This is one of the oldest wineries in the Commonwealth, established in 1973. The owner/winemaker is a German gentleman who may put some off with his gruffness at first (he's all about his wine and making sure his guests have an intimate experience), but he warms up as soon as you start asking questions. Try the unoaked Hunt Country Chardonnay and the Hunt Country Red, a perfect sangria base.
The final stop on your tour could very well be Boxwood Winery, which the blogmasters have not visited. The slickness and formality of this place turns us off (you need an appointment to take a tour and try their wines at the winery). However you can try their wines at their satellite tasting rooms in downtown Middleburg or Reston Town Center. Their signature red, Boxwood, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and is incredibly good, but not better than many other more affordable wines we've had in the region. But due to its location near Middleburg, and the fact that the property (gated of course) is so impressive, it deserves a mention.
There is no shortage of restaurants in Middleburg to find food to soak up your vino experience (although we were sad to see our favorite restaurant in the area, the Hidden Horse Tavern, closed on the last visit). Pick your spot, or tour all of them, and enjoy a daycation away from the Beltway madness.
Quattro Goomba's Winery
Chrysalis Vineyards
Swedenburg Estate Vineyard
Piedmont Vineyards
Boxwood Winery
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Drinking in Virginia's Eastern Shore
Virginia's Eastern Shore, the pencil-shaped peninsula surrounded by the Chesapeake on the west and south, the Atlantic on the east, and the Maryland border on the north, is one of the most unique landscapes on the east coast. Rolling farmlands, creeks, marshes, bogs, and bays share the peninsula with country roads and quaint towns and villages. If you've only experienced the Eastern Shore by traveling north or south on U.S. highway 13, you haven't experienced the Eastern Shore. The peninsula is a land of wild ponies, crab pots, and villagers who still have faint English accents. And now it's home to three wineries - and more are most likely in the future. The Eastern Shore has proven to have rich loamy soil that serve chardonnay, petit manseng and other whites very well - similar to the north fork of Long Island.
You can arrive on the Eastern Shore two ways from the DC area - take the long southern route, through Hampton and Virginia Beach, and over the famous Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, or the shorter (albeit less scenic) route through Maryland. Most folks come out here to visit Chincoteague, Wallops Island and Assateauge Island, or the artsy town of Onancock. For the best tour of the Shore, get off U.S. 13 and follow state highways 318, 178, and county highway 618, through towns with strange names like Parksley, Painter, and Exmore. And if you're coming from the DELMAR (Delaware and Maryland), your first stop to imbibe will most likely be Bloxom Winery, named after the nearby village.
The gentleman who owns Bloxom is French Morrocan, a bit on the gruff side but not unfriendly. Depending on the time of year, you will be offered as many as five wines, or as few as two. His biggest seller is a red, despite the Shore's growing reputation as a white grape region: Merlot. Wonderfully complex yet smooth. His Cab Franc is good as well, if a bit watery compared to the mainland Virginia counterparts. Red Kiss is a sweet wine that is probably his most popular (for those "amateurs" from Ohio and Michigan visiting the ponies in nearby Chincoteague). He has a pizza oven he fires up three seasons of the year, and there is a welcoming sipping patio surrounded by plants.
Driving further south (prepare for about a 45 minute drive), the next stop is Holly Grove Vineyards, an exceptional and very low key spot that hugs a creek that dumps into Chessie. During warmer months, you can actually rent kayaks from Jonathan, the owner and winemaker, but for colder months, most likely it will be just you and the winemaker. He stores his wines in very large European barrels (nearly twice the size of regular barrels), and every wine on his list is exceptional. Genesis, a Bordeaux blend with a nice low alcohol content (translation: You can finish the bottle yourself and not feel utterly trashed), was the favorite red. On the other side of the coin, his petit manseng, at 14.8% alcohol, is delicious but totally creeps up on you. We imagine many overturned kayaks after a bottle or two of this stuff. Of the three wineries on the Eastern Shore, Holly Grove was our favorite. Bonus: You can order online! At blog entry time, he's sold out of Genesis, but we will watch his website with a keen eye.
The final stop on the Eastern Shore trek is Chatham Vineyards, owned by Jon Wehner, a Great Falls, VA native, who rightly deserves the reputation as the Godfather of Eastern Shore wineries. His tasting room is deceiving - he makes a lot of good to great wine here. Let's cut to the chase: The 2010 Steel fermented Chardonnay....hands down the BEST chardonnay we've ever had in Virginia. 2010 was an exceptional year for Virginia wines, thanks to a hot, drier than usual climate in late summer that allowed the grapes to reach maximum potential. The 2009 wasn't too shabby either (according to the website, only the 2009 is currently available). Perhaps he has some 2010 onhand at the winery - you must visit to find out. Other favorites are his merlot and rosé.
Drink in the Eastern Shore this spring, and watch yourself on those kayaks!
Bloxom Winery
Holly Grove Vineyards
Chatham Vineyards
You can arrive on the Eastern Shore two ways from the DC area - take the long southern route, through Hampton and Virginia Beach, and over the famous Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, or the shorter (albeit less scenic) route through Maryland. Most folks come out here to visit Chincoteague, Wallops Island and Assateauge Island, or the artsy town of Onancock. For the best tour of the Shore, get off U.S. 13 and follow state highways 318, 178, and county highway 618, through towns with strange names like Parksley, Painter, and Exmore. And if you're coming from the DELMAR (Delaware and Maryland), your first stop to imbibe will most likely be Bloxom Winery, named after the nearby village.
The gentleman who owns Bloxom is French Morrocan, a bit on the gruff side but not unfriendly. Depending on the time of year, you will be offered as many as five wines, or as few as two. His biggest seller is a red, despite the Shore's growing reputation as a white grape region: Merlot. Wonderfully complex yet smooth. His Cab Franc is good as well, if a bit watery compared to the mainland Virginia counterparts. Red Kiss is a sweet wine that is probably his most popular (for those "amateurs" from Ohio and Michigan visiting the ponies in nearby Chincoteague). He has a pizza oven he fires up three seasons of the year, and there is a welcoming sipping patio surrounded by plants.
Driving further south (prepare for about a 45 minute drive), the next stop is Holly Grove Vineyards, an exceptional and very low key spot that hugs a creek that dumps into Chessie. During warmer months, you can actually rent kayaks from Jonathan, the owner and winemaker, but for colder months, most likely it will be just you and the winemaker. He stores his wines in very large European barrels (nearly twice the size of regular barrels), and every wine on his list is exceptional. Genesis, a Bordeaux blend with a nice low alcohol content (translation: You can finish the bottle yourself and not feel utterly trashed), was the favorite red. On the other side of the coin, his petit manseng, at 14.8% alcohol, is delicious but totally creeps up on you. We imagine many overturned kayaks after a bottle or two of this stuff. Of the three wineries on the Eastern Shore, Holly Grove was our favorite. Bonus: You can order online! At blog entry time, he's sold out of Genesis, but we will watch his website with a keen eye.
The final stop on the Eastern Shore trek is Chatham Vineyards, owned by Jon Wehner, a Great Falls, VA native, who rightly deserves the reputation as the Godfather of Eastern Shore wineries. His tasting room is deceiving - he makes a lot of good to great wine here. Let's cut to the chase: The 2010 Steel fermented Chardonnay....hands down the BEST chardonnay we've ever had in Virginia. 2010 was an exceptional year for Virginia wines, thanks to a hot, drier than usual climate in late summer that allowed the grapes to reach maximum potential. The 2009 wasn't too shabby either (according to the website, only the 2009 is currently available). Perhaps he has some 2010 onhand at the winery - you must visit to find out. Other favorites are his merlot and rosé.
Drink in the Eastern Shore this spring, and watch yourself on those kayaks!
Bloxom Winery
Holly Grove Vineyards
Chatham Vineyards
Sunday, February 5, 2012
If We Build [a Winery], They Would Come
The blogmasters have visited over 115 wineries in the Commonwealth, and we have our favorites (there are many), and our not-so-favorites (ditto), but we have yet to come across the Perfect Virginia Winery. Usually over several bottles at a particular winery, we conjure up our image of the Perfect Winery. A few in Virginia come close, but it's a tall order. What makes a Perfect Winery?
1. Wine: A no brainer. Good variety, crisp and dry whites, bold and dry reds. And maybe one or two sweets to appease those looking for what we now call Charms wines. And a dessert or port offering.
2. Interior Set Up: A large airy tasting room that absorbs sound. A real wood fireplace, that is actually used. A long tasting bar. Eco-friendly design. Plenty of tables and chairs. NO TV. NO LIVE BANDS. An iPod with a good winery-themed mix, or a DJ playing classics at a decent volume, works wonders. We find it amazing that so many wineries opt to be venues for live bands, particularly the ones in Northern Virginia. The wine, tasting room, and the view should be enough of a draw for visitors.
3. Exterior Set Up: A nice view (mountains, a body of water, the vineyards, meadows, forests - we'd use the natural setting to the best advantage). Plenty of picnic tables.
4. A Resident Cat and a Resident Dog. To please 100% of the pet lovers.
5. No Limos, No Keg Buses: Keep the drunkards who want to turn the tasting room into an alpha male frat house or loud, vulgar bachelorette party out.
It's unlikely that we'll find such a winery in the future of Virginia's growing industry, but we can dream.
What is your idea of a perfect winery?
1. Wine: A no brainer. Good variety, crisp and dry whites, bold and dry reds. And maybe one or two sweets to appease those looking for what we now call Charms wines. And a dessert or port offering.
2. Interior Set Up: A large airy tasting room that absorbs sound. A real wood fireplace, that is actually used. A long tasting bar. Eco-friendly design. Plenty of tables and chairs. NO TV. NO LIVE BANDS. An iPod with a good winery-themed mix, or a DJ playing classics at a decent volume, works wonders. We find it amazing that so many wineries opt to be venues for live bands, particularly the ones in Northern Virginia. The wine, tasting room, and the view should be enough of a draw for visitors.
3. Exterior Set Up: A nice view (mountains, a body of water, the vineyards, meadows, forests - we'd use the natural setting to the best advantage). Plenty of picnic tables.
4. A Resident Cat and a Resident Dog. To please 100% of the pet lovers.
5. No Limos, No Keg Buses: Keep the drunkards who want to turn the tasting room into an alpha male frat house or loud, vulgar bachelorette party out.
It's unlikely that we'll find such a winery in the future of Virginia's growing industry, but we can dream.
What is your idea of a perfect winery?
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Cork Calling Orson - All about corks
Through the years, the blogmasters have discussed the pros and cons of various methods to cap wine bottles with Virginia winemakers. We've compiled our notes into one brief summary post to explain the differences and mention the advantages and disadvantages.
Casual and serious wine drinkers have their preferences,and so do the winemakers. The answers to our questions were a bit surprising. To cork, or to screwtop, boils down to your drinking habits. A glimpse of the five most popular types of wine cappers:
Natural Cork
The preferred method of most wineries in the state, as well as the world. But as we've discovered, traditional cork doesn't always provide the best seal. And as natural cork can be unpredictable, the cork could crumble while opening the wine. Some have no problem with bits of cork floating in their wine glass (if you're drunk, who cares anyway?) But others may toss their wine out at the very sight of this. Natural cork, being natural and all, is subject to bacteria contamination, which according to some winery owners and wine fans, is just part of the "adventure of wine enthusiasm."
Natural cork costs the most of all wine bottle toppers, but they are naturally decomposing, therefore good for the environment. Better yet, save them to create a cool wine cork corkboard (you can buy the kits at Total Wine).
There are some wineries that feel natural cork is the one and only way to seal a bottle. Fox Meadow Winery near Front Royal swears by the romantic appeal of natural cork and will always use them.
Agglomerated Cork
Have you ever opened a wine bottle that appears to have a natural cork, only to realize it's some sort of "super packed" cork? Not very porous, and therefore useless for your cool wine cork corkboard? These are agglomerated corks, which are formed from granulated natural corks. They are less expensive than pure natural corks, they can provide a more consistent seal, and they repel bacteria more than their natural counterparts. But drawbacks are there: More difficult to open with a basic corkscrew, and they will not decompose like natural corks. Ox-Eye Vineyards in downtown Staunton works with agglomerated corks.
Synthetic Cork
These are those "foamy" corks that can come in different colors. They are inexpensive to produce, make that "popping" sound, and totally repel bacteria. But.....no cork "romance," and unless they are returned to the winery, they cannot be recycled. And if not properly capped on the bottle, air could filter through the synthetic cork after a few months (or even weeks). Still, many wineries in Virginia favor the synthetic cork, especially mass producers like Horton.
Screw Tops
The most hated method of wine bottle capping according to many fellow blogmasters, several Virginia wineries, and the diehard wine aficionado. Many green wineries in the state swear by screw tops, to reduce the demand from natural cork trees. The problem of course is metal cannot be absorbed by nature, so these wineries presume their guests will recycle. If you've been to Wolf Trap with your six pack of mini wine bottles from Barefoot or (your choice of cheap mass produced 7-11 wine), you know the advantage of screw top wine. Forget about aging wine on your rack, forget about a quality seal, forget about wine opening romance - quantity over quality. And sometimes, that's totally fine.
Many mass producers in Virginia offer the same wine in cork or screw top bottles (depending on your drinking habits). White Hall Vineyards near Charlottesville is just one example.
Zorks
We came across zorks at Byrd Cellars recently and were intrigued - this is a plastic combination of synthetic and screw top. Just as easy to open as a screw top, but with a more reliable seal. The biggest benefit of zorks are their natural-cork like ability to reseal. Screw tops do not allow for a good reseal, if you can't finish the bottle. For this reason, zorks are used in some countries for sparkling wines.
Here is a short video of a discussion with the winemaker at 8 Chains North Winery near Purcellville, explaining the wine sealing process:
Casual and serious wine drinkers have their preferences,and so do the winemakers. The answers to our questions were a bit surprising. To cork, or to screwtop, boils down to your drinking habits. A glimpse of the five most popular types of wine cappers:
Natural Cork
The preferred method of most wineries in the state, as well as the world. But as we've discovered, traditional cork doesn't always provide the best seal. And as natural cork can be unpredictable, the cork could crumble while opening the wine. Some have no problem with bits of cork floating in their wine glass (if you're drunk, who cares anyway?) But others may toss their wine out at the very sight of this. Natural cork, being natural and all, is subject to bacteria contamination, which according to some winery owners and wine fans, is just part of the "adventure of wine enthusiasm."
Natural cork costs the most of all wine bottle toppers, but they are naturally decomposing, therefore good for the environment. Better yet, save them to create a cool wine cork corkboard (you can buy the kits at Total Wine).
There are some wineries that feel natural cork is the one and only way to seal a bottle. Fox Meadow Winery near Front Royal swears by the romantic appeal of natural cork and will always use them.
Agglomerated Cork
Have you ever opened a wine bottle that appears to have a natural cork, only to realize it's some sort of "super packed" cork? Not very porous, and therefore useless for your cool wine cork corkboard? These are agglomerated corks, which are formed from granulated natural corks. They are less expensive than pure natural corks, they can provide a more consistent seal, and they repel bacteria more than their natural counterparts. But drawbacks are there: More difficult to open with a basic corkscrew, and they will not decompose like natural corks. Ox-Eye Vineyards in downtown Staunton works with agglomerated corks.
Synthetic Cork
These are those "foamy" corks that can come in different colors. They are inexpensive to produce, make that "popping" sound, and totally repel bacteria. But.....no cork "romance," and unless they are returned to the winery, they cannot be recycled. And if not properly capped on the bottle, air could filter through the synthetic cork after a few months (or even weeks). Still, many wineries in Virginia favor the synthetic cork, especially mass producers like Horton.
Screw Tops
The most hated method of wine bottle capping according to many fellow blogmasters, several Virginia wineries, and the diehard wine aficionado. Many green wineries in the state swear by screw tops, to reduce the demand from natural cork trees. The problem of course is metal cannot be absorbed by nature, so these wineries presume their guests will recycle. If you've been to Wolf Trap with your six pack of mini wine bottles from Barefoot or (your choice of cheap mass produced 7-11 wine), you know the advantage of screw top wine. Forget about aging wine on your rack, forget about a quality seal, forget about wine opening romance - quantity over quality. And sometimes, that's totally fine.
Many mass producers in Virginia offer the same wine in cork or screw top bottles (depending on your drinking habits). White Hall Vineyards near Charlottesville is just one example.
Zorks
We came across zorks at Byrd Cellars recently and were intrigued - this is a plastic combination of synthetic and screw top. Just as easy to open as a screw top, but with a more reliable seal. The biggest benefit of zorks are their natural-cork like ability to reseal. Screw tops do not allow for a good reseal, if you can't finish the bottle. For this reason, zorks are used in some countries for sparkling wines.
Here is a short video of a discussion with the winemaker at 8 Chains North Winery near Purcellville, explaining the wine sealing process:
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