Sunday, June 17, 2012

The Battle of the Foxes

Virginia is home to three fox-themed wineries, all three unique and blogmaster favorites for several years (and we were tempted to make a "Fox and Friends" crack but decided to keep politics off this board). Fox Meadow, Three Fox and Flying Fox with an honorable mention to Twin Oaks Tavern, which has a fox as its mascot.

The stats: Fox Meadow and Three Fox are both part of the Fauquier County Wine Trail, and both can be enjoyed the same day. Flying Fox is south of Waynesboro, and Twin Oaks Tavern is off Route 7, a few clicks up the road from the very popular Bluemont Vineyards. So which Fox rules the farm....we mean vineyard? Fox Meadow Winery, by a nose. Every visit to Fox Meadow has been special and the view "looking down on the mountains" (their slogan) is one of the best in the Commonwealth. Fox Meadow was the recipient in 2008 of the Governor's Cup, for their outstanding Le Renard Rouge, a meritage-like blend of Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot. Their elevation is perfect for Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris, and here they didn't have to pick just one varietal. They offer both. The Grigio is the drier version, although the Gris, with its apricot and honeysuckle notes, is perfect chilled and makes a good summer wine. This is a dry wine spot, although their "Freezeland" options (red and white) were created with the sweet wine fans in mind. The best thing that can be said about sweet wine is it didn't make the blogmasters want to spit the wine out, and that was the case with the Freezeland wines.

Setting: Big balcony overlooking the mountains, with shade provided by umbrellas and a gazebo. Picnic tables under large trees on the lawn for spillover. Inside, an airy tasting room and several tables (reserved for wine club members). The appeal of Fox Meadow is aesthetics. When leaving Fox Meadow, take the right turn out of the lot, and drive through the "Blue Mountain" community on the way down the mountain, for a real treat. This road will end up hugging the Shenandoah River, before dropping drivers off on Route 50.

Follow signs on route 50 to Three Fox, which is our second favorite Fox winery in the state. Three Fox Vineyards is an Italian themed winery named after playful foxes that were on the property when the owners surveyed their newly acquired land. The reds are the stars here, particularly the Cab Franc and Sangiovese (they currently offer both a regular and reserve Sangiovese). Also, their port-like wine "Dolce Chambourcin" is high on character, but surprisingly low on alcohol content. As for the whites, not as strong as the reds, but all with an Italian twist. Their Leggero Chardonnay is a perfect summer chard, with notes of butterscotch. They have more sweeter wines than Fox Meadow, following the "the closer to DC, the more sweet wines they have" principle. And their rosé is sweeter than the drier versions we've become accustomed to in Virginia, but excellent chilled and perfect for taking to Wolf Trap.

Setting: You will be impressed with this place the minute you cross the little bridge over Crooked Run. Shift your vehicle into overdrive to get more tork, and climb up that hill. Rolling Piedmont vineyards and meadows surround you. Crooked Run babbles down the hill, and Three Fox has two hammocks and several picnic tables by the creek. The tasting room is housed in a small barn-like structure, a bit cramped but during the warm months, they have an outdoor tasting tent. Do your tasting under this tent, overlooking the vineyards, for the full wine tasting experience. A few tables with umbrellas are situated between the vineyard rows (a nice touch!), and ample tables with umbrellas surround the tasting room. And then there's the Table in the Sky--you can't miss this table. Hike up the hill, past the beanbag and bocce games, and sit yourself down for a treat. Green Fauquier county fields surround you. Three Fox gets high marks on the "unwineding" scale!

Flying Fox Vineyards is located south of Waynesboro, in a winery populated section of Nelson County (not far from better-known spots like Cardinal Point and Veritas). They're a small operation, easy to overlook on your way to Wintergreen (winery or resort). But the wine are incredibly good; something for everyone. For the sweet fans, a Vidal Blanc called Fox White. Fox Red is a table wine perfectly suited for pizza, off-dry. An amusing label adorns these blends; each year, their mascot is featured in various acts of flight (in a World War I-era biplane; in a hot air balloon; being shot out of a cannon; or this year's image, clinging to a bunch of helium balloons, "sailing over Afton Mountain"). Their artist must love coming up with an image each year! On the more serious wine side, they offer a pure Petit Verdot, which stands up to some bold Old World reds as a prime rib or porterhouse wine, and will age nicely for up to 10 years in the right conditions. At $19, this wine is an absolute steal! "Trio" is a perfect blend of Petit Verdot, Cab Franc and Merlot, and our favorite wine on their menu. Their rosé is dry and refreshing.

Setting: A small garden area with a few tables, and a magnificent vista of the Blue Ridge beyond a large pasture. The tasting cottage sports a weather vane on the roof that gave this winery its name: The fox on the vane looks like he's flying, especially after a few glasses of their Petit Verdot.

The runner up in this battle of foxes is Twin Oaks Tavern Winery, which has a fox on some of its bottles, but appears to be moving away from the fox theme to an oak leaf theme. Still, the winery is young and deserves a shout-out. Located off route 7 on the way to Winchester, this spot offers some incredible reds: Cab Sauv, Norton and Raven Rock Red meritage blends. Their recently expanded tasting room offers a fireplace for colder days, and the decks and patios hug the hillside. The view here is northwest - the Blue Ridge and on a clear day, you can see into West Virginia. And as a final note, next time you visit the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York, say hi to their fox counterpart: Fox Run Vineyards!

Enjoy a short video from Flying Fox Vineyards:

Sunday, June 3, 2012

Winery Spotlight: Virginia Wineworks

Virginia Wineworks, or "Wineworks" (their new official name), is unlike any other winery you'll visit in Virginia. No "Keg Buses" full of overgrown frat boys, bachelorette parties, or live bands to be found here. This is a Working Winery. And you're aware of it the minute you pull into their gravel driveway. To enter the tasting room (more like tasting basement) of Wineworks, you walk through the barrel storage and tank area. Wineworks makes wine for other Virginia locations, and some barrels have masking tape indicating the names of those other wineries. We were surprised at the geographical reach of some locations - Wineworks is located south of Charlottesville, yet they evidently make wine for some locations in the Northern Neck.

There are two labels here: Wineworks, and Michael Shaps. Michael Shaps is one of the founding fathers of the Virginia wine scene, and his winemaking skill is well-known by anyone with even a passing interest in Virginia wine. The wines on his own label are a little pricier, but we actually preferred some of the blends on the more economical Wineworks label (we had a similar reaction to Ingleside and their Chesapeake label). Wineworks features wine in a box - the first Virginia location to do this. The boxes hold up to three liters of wine. Currently viognier, chardonnay and cabernet franc are offered in boxes; a good start for the Virginia box market as these are three signature Virginia wines. Wine snobs may be put off by the box concept, but for entertaining at a party, or dragging to Wolf Trap, box wine does just fine. Just make sure it's chilled (even the cab franc). The wines are good to excellent here (the boxed wine being in the good category), and the price is right (all box wines are $30 each). As for the bottled wines, our favorite Wineworks offerings were the Merlot/Malbec blend, "half a Meritage" (it's missing two varietals to be considered a Meritage), at $16 a steal and perfect with red meat, whether it's a filet mignon or burgers on the grill. On the Michael Shaps label, the chardonnay was excellent with faint notes of almond and pear. Viognier is produced under both labels. If you go for the full tasting in the tasting "basement," you can try the Wineworks and Michael Shaps viogniers back to back. Both beautifully done, but we preferred the Michael Shaps viognier (not as acidic).

The location is about half a mile through the woods past First Colony Winery, south of Charlottesville. First Colony makes fine wine and their set up is more conducive to "hanging out" (First Colony has been a favorite of the blogmasters for years). Start with a visit to Wineworks, and buy several bottles to go, and then meander back to First Colony to wrap your afternoon up.

Watch our short video on Wineworks:

Saturday, May 5, 2012

Video Clip III: Afton Mountain Vineyards

3rd stop on the mid April 2012 Waynesboro/Staunton jaunt.

Video Clip II: Pollak Vineyards

Welcome to Pollak! Not a big wine discussion here, but check out the property. One of the nicest locations in the entire state!

Video Clip I: Veritas Vineyards

Springtime means Monticello Wine Trail! Veritas Vineyards, south of Waynesboro, stop # 1.

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Village Wine Stop #4: Sperryville

If you've made the trek to Skyline Drive or Luray Caverns, most likely you've driven through Sperryville, a picturesque village on U.S. highway 211. Located at the base of the mountain you'll drive up after entering Shenandoah National Park (longtime Virginia residents may remember the Panorama cafeteria-style restaurant near the Skyline Drive interchange), Sperryville and its historic district is listed on the Virginia Landmarks Registry and the National Register of Historic Places.

And yes, several vineyards with incredible views are not far away. U.S. highway 211, past Warrenton, will soon be "one winery after another" (similar to Sonoma and Napa), at the rate the wineries are opening. Sperryville is usually mentioned in the same breath as "Little" Washington, Virginia, a yippie-dominated village with a swank inn that needs no introduction.

After exploring Sperryville on foot for an hour, drive south of the village on route 231 (about 12 miles) to the village (more of a crossroads) of Etlan. Follow signs (or your map) to DuCard Vineyards. This "green" winery (in terms of the environment, not the wine or the experience of the winemakers) is another in a series of newer Virginia locations that utilizes sustainable practices in its operation to keep it "off the grid" as much as possible. The first thing many people notice are the solar panels on the tasting room roof. The wine isn't too shabby either. The Viognier is a dry winner, with a slight nuance of honeysuckle and apricot. Our favorite red is Popham Run Red (named after the creek that flows through the property), a rich blend that would be perfect with a steak cooked on charcoal (not gas grill---charcoal).

There are old apple trees on the property that still bear fruit (an apple orchard called this spot home many years ago). But as of this writing, there is no apple wine offered...maybe in a few years, after the owners master grapes, they'll take a crack at the steadily growing apple wine and hard cider market in Virginia.

Doubling back towards Sperryville on route 231, the next winery is about ten minutes from DuCard--Sharp Rock Vineyards. This is the oldest winery in the Sperryville area, and is so close to Old Rag Mountain you can practically touch it. The tasting room is a lot more rustic than DuCard, with a tight tasting room, but you will have a memorable exchange with one of the owners (the owners are a husband and wife team) - ask Jimm about the old winery/mead operation Smokehouse Winery, which used to exist up the road from Sharp Rock, of if you encounter Kathy, ask her about her animated neighbor and her chickens.

The wines are exceptional, and well priced. The chardonnay is unoaked and delicious, especially slightly chilled. Other perfect summer picnic winners are the Sauvignon Blanc and their two rosés. Snag a spot by the Hughes River (you'll cross it a few times during your drive) and cue up the John Denver. Almost Heaven should be the name of one of their wines. (And if you drink too much, they have a guest cottage overlooking the stream you can book for the night, provided it hasn't been reserved...it is a popular spot).

The next two wineries are east of Sperryville, heading back towards Warrenton. Gadino Cellars, about a mile off route 211, is a family-friendly, Italian-themed location with views of rolling foothills and meadows (it's hard to believe the spot is only a mile away from a busy U.S. highway). Every now and then you may hear the rumblings of motorcycles on their way to Skyline Drive, but don't let that distort your experience here. There is a wine for everyone here: Dry, semi dry, sweet, dessert. Pinot Grigio was our favorite white, and for more picnic sipping, Sunset and Moonrise (a table white and red) are perfect. By far the best red we've had here is their Imagine, a blend of Chambourcin, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Zesty and delicious, and further proof that Virginia has come a long way with their reds.

The final stop is Narmada Winery, also off 211 on the way back to Warrenton, which has been open for about two years now, and promises a cultural experience as well as a wine experience. The winery is owned and operated by an Indian family who frequently pair their tastings with savory food from their country. Chambourcin rules supreme here: Reds named "Midnight," "Reflection," and "Primita" are three examples of how versatile this Virginia favorite is. Narmada also offers several red blends, all on the hearty side. And what would go well with a curry infused dish? One of their whites, particularly the off-dry or off-sweet options: "Lotus" or "Dream" (try them chilled).

There are a few other locations off 211 you may have time to wander into, or visit the next day if you're well off enough to check in to the Inn at Little Washington: The new Little Washington Winery (offering wines from Virginia, as well as other "new" wine states like Idaho), Grey Ghost Vineyards, and Unicorn Winery. And if you have a designated driver, you can always return to Sperryville and Skyline Drive for some "Virginia Mountain High" life.

DuCard Vineyards
Sharp Rock Vineyards
Gadino Cellars
Narmada Winery
Little Washington Winery
Grey Ghost Vineyards
Unicorn Winery

Monday, April 9, 2012

Village Wine Stop #3: Waterford

Waterford is in the middle of Loudoun County, but it may as well be in the middle of rural central Pennsylvania. There is something decidely Lancaster Dutch-like about this village. Maybe it's the age of the village itself (1733). Or maybe it's the Quaker history of the village. Or the rolling hills leading to narrow streets in the village itself. Having the town as a home residence name on your address instantly increases your property value. This is the quiet Middleburg. Don't expect fancy dress shops and restaurants here. But there are several unique and highly underrated wineries surrounding the village.

Corcoran Vineyards was actually named Waterford Vineyards several years ago, until a certain crystal manufacturing company took note and sent them a not-so-nice letter. Lori Corcoran is the popular winemaker here, and in addition to making the excellent product at her winery, acts as a tasting room manager at nearby Sunset Hills Vineyard on an ad hoc basis. There are several fun "summer whites" here, perfect for chilling: Traminette, Cello (Petit Manseng), and a delicious apple wine. But the stand outs are the reds, in particular their Chambourcin and rosé, made from the Chambourcin. The tasting room is rather tight, inside a small cabin, and the property does have a few McMansions within sight (welcome to Loudoun county), but there is an intimacy here missing from many wineries in the county. Corcoran recently got into the brewery mold, and you can dabble in craft beer on the same visit as their brewery is very close to the winery.

Sunset Hills Vineyard is a totally different world than Corcoran - bustling, full of wine enthusiasts as well as what we call "the amateurs," there for one reason and one reason only--get sloshed. But Sunset Hills proves that bustling and commercial does not equate to inferior. Many of their wines are award-winners, and the tasting room is located inside a barn restored several years ago by Amish builders (another link to Pennsylvania). The owners, Mike and Diane Canney, are frequently onsite. Mike left a lucrative career as a nuclear physicist in Reston (Sunset Hills is actually named after the road his company was located on), and also races cars in his spare time. Being a scientist, he is very analyical and admits that his first vineyard was planted improperly. Now he has four distinct vineyards and specializes in Viognier, Cab Franc, and Cab Sauv. A Petit Verdot is on the way.

Village Winery is properly named, just a stones' throw away from the Waterford village limits. Owner/winemaker Kent Marrs is a Kansas native with planting and harvesting in his blood. All of his wines are entirely hand-crafted - no mechanical pumps (more Amish influence, perhaps?) His Petit Verdot stood out as a big bold red, and he has a fun apple wine as well as a few typical Virginia offerings (Viognier, Merlot, Cab Franc). However the big draw here is his elderberry products: Not only wine, but chocolate/elderberry syrup for desserts, a sparkling beverage with no alcohol, and a vinaigrette salad dressing. The tasting room is located inside a quaint, rather drafty barn, and there are plenty of picnic tables surrounding the rustic barn.

Casanel Vineyards is a blogmaster favorite, sandwiched between the Waterford area of Loudoun county and the small town of Hamilton. Named after owners Nelson and Casey DeSouza, the tasting room is a family affair, and usually every member of the family can be spotted there. Nelson is an entertaining native of Brazil who came to the U.S. and spent years as a successful construction contractor. Currently Nelson is working on an adjacent tasting room for buses, limos and loud bachelorette parties, "so our loyal longtime guests can enjoy a quiet tasting and we can still expand to appeal to big groups." It's a great idea and would be fantastic if other wineries followed his lead. Their Viognier is excellent--crisp with just the right amount of citrus tartness, and perfect chilled. The reds are the stars here: Norton and Merlot, in particular. Both are recent award winners. Grab a bottle for their gazebo located in a pond (you read right). Three Fox has its table in the sky. Casanel has its table in the pond.

The last stop is only a mile from downtown Leesburg: Dry Mill Vineyards. The horse on the label comes from the history of the barn that serves as the tasting room--this was once home to the horses of the Loudoun Hunt Club. The barn is a combination of the very rustic spot in Village Winery and the restored, highly impressive barn at Sunset Hills. And a corporate meeting room exists above the tasting room, for your next business meeting. Wines are good to outstanding, most under $20. Their two chardonnays (one steel barrel aged, the other oak) are worth trying back to back, to get a feel for what your palate prefers (steel vs. oak). Dry Mill is another location doing great things with Chambourcin, which is well on its way to join Cab Franc and Petit Verdot as official Virginia reds.

Loudoun County now has more wineries than many U.S. states. Waterford is a perfect starting point to branch out and experience a few lesser-known spots in the county.

Corcoran Vineyards
Sunset Hills Vineyard
Village Winery
Casanel Vineyards
Dry Mill Vineyards